Watches - another OCD problem
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I hope I did not offend. In-house movements were adopted as a market differentiator and for brands to remain relevant…hello Panerai.
As to the article itself "Luxury Science" is hardly new, but it is to the watch industry.
How does that affect the content of the article?
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In case you can't wait a day for the Rolex news…
http://rolexpassionreport.com/26810/rolex-and-tudor-2019-basel-world-news/
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@mclaincausey you won the internet today
In case you can't wait a day for the Rolex news…
http://rolexpassionreport.com/26810/rolex-and-tudor-2019-basel-world-news/
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Patek have announced their new watches, most of which seem to be expensive iterations of existing models. But I do like the Calatrava Weekly Calendar, which has a steel case, and (for once) they've implemented hacking seconds on it.
More at Hodinkee. Unfortunately the price is CHF 29,500, so it's probably not happening.
Panerai have got a new Bronzo. @Anesthetist won't appreciate it, as the case is 47 mm!
I wonder if the Rolex link that @mclaincausey is complete. There's a teaser video of something gold with a fluted bezel on Twitter, which doesn't match anything in that article.
The Yachtmaster would certainly match the teaser, and if it's steel, it'll be the first time the Oysterflex has turned up on a non-precious metal watch.
@louisbosco will like the new Batman.
The Tudor US Marine is awesome.
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Who knows, could be total bullshit too. I agree (hope) that that isn't all that's coming. It seemed like there had to be an Explorer or Space Dweller reference based on that rocket in the teaser video.
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Rolex and Tudor have unveiled their new models, and it's pretty much what @mclaincausey posted earlier. The Yacht Master is white gold, not steel.
No Milgauss.
In fact, there are two stainless models: A new 36 mm Datejust, and the GMT BLNR "Batman" refresh.
The Black Bay P01 is the funky looking watch in the leaked catalogue. It's got a video of men doing manly things at sea and in helicopters.
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Disappointing from Rolex/Tudor from my perspective. Never liked the YM line (few do), don't care for two tone, Batman is cool, no proliferation of their next gen movement into other lines.
Datejust 1263XXX remain the most interesting to me.
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The Zenith Defy Inventor, which is a production version of the Defy Lab from a year or two ago.
It's got an 18 Hz oscillator, most watches top out at 3 or 4 Hz, and is probably going to be the most interesting watch released at Baselworld. Then again, with Rolex's efforts, that's not hard.
More at Monochrome.
I like the Tudor P01 too @JDelage. But my tastes in watches aren't particularly Catholic!
@mclaincausey, the 126200 is a 36 mm Datejust with a silver dial and the new 3235 movement. That's my pick of the new Rolex releases. You might be able to get one sometime before the heat death of the universe without going grey market too.
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@Graeme actually, i didn't like anything i've seen so far. the pepsi is still the goal… hearing rumours that they are discontinuing that black. which might work well for me
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It's such an underwhelming Baselworld for Rolex (and for others) that I hope the focus is on production of existing watches.
The YM revision is nice, but who asked for that? It's their least popular line. If they are seeking to breathe life into it, then a precious metal case doesn't seem like the way to do it. The Oysterflex bracelet is great to see, and I hope that it will proliferate to the Submariner and SD lines.
Sea Dweller, a "tool watch," in two tones? The blog post I posted yesterday explained the historical context, but not sure I get that decision either.
There do appear to be some new Roman numeral, unlumed dials (and with them unlumed hands) available in the Datejust line, and there are modernized movements in DJ and DD in 36 out as well, so that's good news for the ladies, those with smaller wrists, and those looking to have a very precious DJ that is as non-sports-watch as possible (e.g., fluted bezel, jubilee bracelet, unlumed Roman numeral dial). That to me is one reason DJ is the most interesting line, you can range from dress watch (perhaps even going further than my example with diamond indices and/or bezels) to something like a black or white index dial, smooth bezel, Oyster bracelet 41 for a sport watch, and what's in the case is robust enough to go either way.
In two years I think Explorer II has its 50th anniversary. So, 3285 I hope will make it into that line, and maybe there will be some other changes to it. Perhaps then, NEXT year is when the Subs finally get the 32XX movements, as I'd assumed they would this year. Who knows with Rolex, but it was a disappointing Baselworld for them and Tudor (with its FUGLY diver) in my eyes.
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Bulgari announced the Octo Finissimo Chronograph yesterday. It's just over 6 mm thick, and is the thinnest on the market. I like it.
More at Hodinkee and Monochrome.
Rolex seem to be pushing precious metal and two tone watches this year. The only steel models are a new Datejust and the Batman, and the former isn't mentioned in the press release. It does feel like they're spinning their wheels.
We haven't heard much from the Swatch Group. They've got an event on in Zurich to unveil their new range, but there haven't been any announcements yet.
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Love the Bulgari. Cool that you can advance the hour for travel purposes, if disappointing (and understandable on a chronograph, and the right decision) that there's no date. I think it's probably better off as a pure chronograph, perhaps with a quick-set hour capability at the crown. I might worry about accidentally depressing the button advancing the hour as it's configured.
I had hoped Seiko would take advantage of Rolex's Baselworld flop with a splash of their own, but IMO this ain't it. I didn't like the "thin" ones they already introduced, though I do like seeing that Spring Drive that lacks the PR on the dial. I like the thinner ceramic bezel on the GMT chronograph, but it is entirely too busy and fussy. I don't think the crowded, gaudy design will stand the test of time and is not a timeless design that could become iconic. The Prospex dive watches are alright, but you can basically get a turtle that is nigh indistinguishable from the cushion case for 10% of the price. I hear that even upper-echelon Prospex mechanicals are often compromised in their performance by being drenched in lube, and I saw a chapter ring misalignment in one of their own marketing photos, so these are not in a position to command the asking price from my perspective. Seiko's ambitions to move upmarket are clear, but I don't think they're going about it the right way, and based on their depreciation on the secondary market, I think I'm not the only one.
A disappointing Baselworld almost all the way around for me.
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faux patina is getting out of control!
To revisit the topic of Grand Seiko and dial back or at least frame some of my negativity, I do like the sunray steel handwound GS with no PR indicator on the dial. I also like some of the unobtanium that they dropped. I am just disappointed in GS's sport watch game, particularly in the segment where they could battle Rolex.
What I'd love to see from Grand Seiko would be around 40mm 200M dive watches in svelte, zaratsu-polished steel cases, 14.5mm or less thickness, with mechanical and/or Spring Drive movements. It seems that the direction is towards dress watches, and to push Prospex dive watches, which means a lower level of finishing and that terrible Prospex logo that looks cheap (I say this as one who wears a Prospex diver most days). They could build on the GS brand equity instead of trying to elevate Prospex, which will be an uphill battle.
It might also be interesting in their high-end quartz to see if they could replace the battery with solar or kinetic power.
