Are you a RAW (STF), Selvedge, un-sanforized loyalist ?
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I think the shrink-to-fit thing in raw denim is what makes the attraction. It is true that they will conform to your body better, especially if you get the sizing right and actually let them shrink and dry on your body (the drying part is more important). Getting the sizing right means to be able to anticipate both shrinkage and stretch so that they will be just right afterwards. Usually it takes some trial and error with the same model unless you get lucky. And the dry on body process is really only recommended if you live somewhere so warm where you can lay in the sun and let it dry on your body without getting an infection or a cold.
Of course, you can get lucky with sanforized jeans, too. I think the 9634 is the best fitting pair I have out of a dozen or so. They are marvelous. As long as the fit and the quality are right, I don't care if it's raw or not.
Simon, if you just want to experiment a little with raw jeans get yourself into a pair of 501 STF. The Verde Rigid model has a really beautiful green cast. They look very stylish. I think I paid $35 for mine. Have not seen a single other person with those jeans on the UT campus of 50,000 students.
Till
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Thanks shub.
@ giles- i know that the 301s and the 9301 are two styles that are exclusive to self edge, but i was under the impression, although i think i had heard it right (Ginno from self edge), that the 3001, F310 and F380 are now no longer in production. So what i had meant to say when you said that you had Flat Head 3001's is that i was wondering if you meant in stock with you or if you meant that you still get them from Flat Head and they were actually still in production. I think i may have muddled the water a bit much but i hope this time i got it a tad bit clearer. :-\
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@simon626:
Okay, on the topic of being a loyalist, Right now i'm kinda bent on never buying anything that isn't IH or TW denim-wise. The problem is, this loyalty doesn't come without it's royalty tax. 300+ dollars per pair of jeans really isn't easy for me to come by. I've decided that i am in DIRE need of a pair of straight raws. The thing is, do i just save until i have enough money to buy from a brand that i know i will LOVEEEEEEEEEEEEE, or should i opt for a cheaper pair that fills my necessity yet is a little less burdening on my wallet?
I was referring to this post of yours. Certainly, the standard $35 501 STF stand no comparison to the $300 IH jeans but they are nice jeans in their own right, the color is great (you get to choose from like six to eight shades) and you can experiment a bit with fit and the right STF technique. Besides, many of the Japanese jeans are 501 repros in one way or another. Mine last on average 4 years but my rotation is large and I don't get them repaired. I just trade them down for sloppy look, yard work, outdoor activity or paint projects.
As far as asking a sales person for fit, this is where Giles and Kiya really shine. I find that the average sales person will tell you n'importe quoi or outright admit they have no clue (which is preferable).
Till
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Thanks shub.
@ giles- i know that the 301s and the 9301 are two styles that are exclusive to self edge, but i was under the impression, although i think i had heard it right (Ginno from self edge), that the 3001, F310 and F380 are now no longer in production. So what i had meant to say when you said that you had Flat Head 3001's is that i was wondering if you meant in stock with you or if you meant that you still get them from Flat Head and they were actually still in production. I think i may have muddled the water a bit much but i hope this time i got it a tad bit clearer. :-\
TFH 3001 still being produced, and i have a few pairs in stock. F series not being made any longer, though I still have a few F380's here.
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@simon- i'm sorry to say it, but N&F is mediocre at best man. do yourself a huge favor and pass on that. Its worth it to get one really nice item instead of getting something early and not having that itch that burns a hole in your pocket. Trust me, i have done these things before, and you will have buyers regret when you go back online and think to yourself "man, i should have waited and gotten my 634s/301s/3001s etc.." you know? i'm just trying to give you my honest opinion man.
@giles- Oh really???? dope! ok, so its just the Frontier series that isnt being made anymore. ok, i get it now. cool, thanks giles.
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Take a look at the 5100:
http://www.flat-head.co.uk/html/Specials.html
A little more than the 8005A, but a classic straight cut and you won't have to bugger around with the cinch.. G
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if Giles had anything with old arcs and tabs, in my size, for a deal dude, its not a matter of how much its a matter of how long till it gets here!
and to touch on the nudie v FH, people buy nudies because they have all the modern, slim, hipster cuts. Flat head is a bit higher up on the food chain with premium denim and quality material and construction. Just depends on what you are looking to pay for. Def look into those 5100's tho… lucky, they have your size
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@drz:
As long as it's Indigo dyed, I'm loyal, no matter it's unsanforized or sanforized. I don't know why I don't like black denim.
drz, it's cool. To each his own, Man. But it's funny…I've noticed that San Francisco and Oakland bikers prefer black denim. Whenever I ride BART, I always see bikers in black denim rather than indigo. Remember JackCrank, the dude introduced by LandoCal -- who pummeled his 9301 Slim SuperBlack jeans in a matter of 4 months (but later got them fixed expertly by Kiya's recommended tailor) ? He is an avid biker and he seems to prefer black as well. I dunno...but bikers and black denim seem to go together, at least in The San Francisco Bay Area.
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The only thing I prefer about unsanforized is the crunchiness I get after the original shrink. Selvedge doesn't matter to me much, but that being said, the only jeans I have that is not selvedge is my brown cotton duck jeans that don't come in selvedge.
Raw is a must though, I'll never go back to pre distressed or stonewashed. My Imperial Kings have been beat up and washed to the point where the thighs are pretty much stone washed, but I love the contrast between the thighs and the lower part of the legs
High contrast fades for me have never been a priority for me and my jeans reflect it, after as many washes my jeans go through in a year, there's not much in the way of honeycombing behind the knees
The one thing I've never wrapped my mind around is button fly though. While I'm all for tradition, they're a real bitch to open and close after my fifth or sixth margarita. I'm probably the only one on this board that will go for the new Superblack jeans with the zipper over the button fly
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BUTTON FLY ATARIIIII!!!!!!!! lol
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There was a zipper scene involving Ben Stiller in the movie "There's Something about Mary" (Mary played by Cameron Diaz) – that I'll never forget ! OUCH ! Seul is right DougNg. Better to walk around with your button fly undone or fucked up than have your thing ripped up by the zipper !
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i can undo the button about as fast as a zipper. unless you are talking about the first couple of days… but yeah man, i dont see the zipper as that much of a problemo. aside from needing to undo your belt and top button to pee. thats about the extent of the 'annoyingness' i would say.