Does anyone else not *get* chainstitch runoff on shirts?
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Is that chainstitching like on the hem of the jeans or is it a flatlock machine seam? The flatlock is normally only used on inside seams where a hidden seam would be too thick or too costly or where you don't want to get a visible seamline on the outside as you would with a hidden (doubled) seam.
I think it's a coquetterie to have the flatlock hem on an otherwise immaculately detailed and sewn shirt like the Melton. I also think it goes too far and would prefer a real hem.
Till
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What, I am saying is that I am not sure whether what Daveo is referring to is actually a chainstitch. If it is what I can see on the pictures of the Melton, it is not a chainstitch but a flatlock. The chainstitch is what we got on the hem of our IH jeans. The flatlock is what we have on the inside leg seam of the jeans. The flatlock machine cuts the cloth and lays a "coil" of thread around the edge thereby preventing fraying at the edge. Whoever invented it was one fine mechanical engineer. The flatlock machine typically leaves a "run out", just like those threads that you can see hanging off the shirts. This is usually cut off. In and of itself there is really nothing prestigious in the use of a flatlock seam and especially not in failing to cut off the runs. Normally, the higher the tailoring standard the rarer the use of the flatlock (or at least visible flatlock seams) will be. This is why I call it coquetterie. Of course, flatlock seams can also be used decoratively, for example on sweatshirts. They also make for a flatter seam, hence the name.
So there are some instances where I get this kind of finish and others where I don't see the point. On a high quality sweatshirt, having some visible and nicely executed flatlocks in a contrasting thread color can be beautiful. But on a an otherwise very nicely tailored shirt they are not so appropriate in my eyes.
Till
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not me - I totally get them.
Agreed. I just wear them until they fall of on they're own. It is just part of the design aesthetic and personal preference to keep it or cut it. Funny actually, I went to help my mom out with something last week and was wearing my IHSH-13 and she walked by with scissors. Out of the corner of my eye I saw her going for my shirt, before I flipped out…. We had a good laugh about it.
@tfar:
What, I am saying is that I am not sure whether what Daveo is referring to is actually a chainstitch. If it is what I can see on the pictures of the Melton, it is not a chainstitch but a flatlock. The chainstitch is what we got on the hem of our IH jeans. The flatlock is what we have on the inside leg seam of the jeans. The flatlock machine cuts the cloth and lays a "coil" of thread around the edge thereby preventing fraying at the edge. Whoever invented it was one fine mechanical engineer. The flatlock machine typically leaves a "run out", just like those threads that you can see hanging off the shirts. This is usually cut off. In and of itself there is really nothing prestigious in the use of a flatlock seam and especially not in failing to cut off the runs. Normally, the higher the tailoring standard the rarer the use of the flatlock (or at least visible flatlock seams) will be. This is why I call it coquetterie. Of course, flatlock seams can also be used decoratively, for example on sweatshirts. They also make for a flatter seam, hence the name.
So there are some instances where I get this kind of finish and others where I don't see the point. On a high quality sweatshirt, having some visible and nicely executed flatlocks in a contrasting thread color can be beautiful. But on a an otherwise very nicely tailored shirt they are not so appropriate in my eyes.
Till
The IHW-01 (Melton) is not what he is talking about. Check out the bottom of the side seems of this shit. I believe this is what he is referring to: http://www.ironheart.co.uk/html/IHSH-13.html
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I can't live without the chainstitch runoff
In fact, the shirt I bought today from Al's Attire has a beautifully braided chainstitch runoff.Now that's some Chainstitch Runoff Porn if I ever saw it! I was looking at those flicks today and hoping you would post them up on this thread. Good shit!
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Thanks for clarifying, Lando. That's definitely not flatlock. Looks so so to me. Better in the shirt pic Arrow posted. What shirt is that? It's a little bit akin to leaving the last button hole on the sleeve open in an MTM or bespoke suit, except that those do represent a real additional tailoring effort. So from a snob perspective, I'd say cut'em off. From a purely esthetic perspective I almost kinda like it.
Till
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Ahhhhhh. Faux Chainstitch Runoff?!? FAIL! Jk Arrow, Al does great stuff and that is no exception. Definitely a bit more costumy than IH. Looks like tsitsit. That's what my brother told me once, and I kinda agree. HA!
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