Watches - another OCD problem
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SIHH is on this week, which means a whole load of new watches to ogle.
There's been a lot of press about how the industry is suffering, but much of what's being shown off seems to be very high end. (Surely Tourbillons were so last season?) It feels as though it's business as usual, rather than picking a new direction, and a lot of the pieces have a particular classic look, which is starting to feel a bit dated.
So what do I like?
The (take a deep breath) Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Automatic Master Chronometer looks fun. It's got a Seventies vibe, along with a movement that's accurate, laughs at magnetism, and has service intervals measured in geological time. It's probably the sort of thing that I'd buy as a day-to-day piece.
It looks like Vacheron Constantin have got the memo about struggling sales. The Hodinkee Instagram feed had a photo of the small Overseas that's been de-blinged. I'm not a fan of jewels on watches (although I did like a Breitling with black diamonds - I have no shame), so I'd be very tempted by this one.
I'm not normally a fan of Panerai, but the LAB-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days PAM 700 is a big, black science experiment, with a fifty year guarantee. Want!
The Lange 31 Monats-Werk has just been unveiled. So named because it's got a 31 day power reserve.
Montblanc have another Minerva based chronograph, the Timewalker Rally Timer. This has the same monopusher movement as the bronze one I was getting very excited about a few weeks ago, but is in a 50 mm titanium case. However, it can be converted into a pocket watch, desk clock, or even clipped into the dashboard holder in your car.
Urwerk have their take on the Reverso.
And MB&F have brought out the HM7, which is a dive watch. Although with 50 metres of water resistance, I can't see it going swimming very often.
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The Lab Id model is really lovely. i recently went into a store to take a look at Panerai. sadly, they didn't do the 005 anymore and they've updated it with the 1005. which doesn't come with the "iconic" rubber straps. the case back and case have also been tweaked slightly and doesn't have that bulky presence anymore.
that said, IIRC, it's AP's model for the Royal Oak anniversaries have see them release quite a few this year. always loved a royal oak.
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there's a pam, which model number i forgot, that has everything in it. gmt, power reserve, date hands and second hands as well if i remembered correctly. that and the 005 are 2 models that i'm very fond of. the 005 was my first step into luxury watches. it has a special meaning. i still kinda regret selling it.
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Welp, I think its time I buy my first big boy watch.
cant decide–- Tudor Black bay or the IWC Pilot Chronograph... If IWC made the Big Pilot smaller.. so I guess the Pilot, with that dope winder, that would be my choice in a quick sec. That being said... Any tips on buying a watch in person? Do I negotiate price? Any tips?
Also for NYCers--- Wempe or Torneau... or IWC boutique if I go IWC?
Thanks!
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Welp, I think its time I buy my first big boy watch.
cant decide–- Tudor Black bay or the IWC Pilot Chronograph... If IWC made the Big Pilot smaller.. so I guess the Pilot, with that dope winder, that would be my choice in a quick sec. That being said... Any tips on buying a watch in person? Do I negotiate price? Any tips?
Also for NYCers--- Wempe or Torneau... or IWC boutique if I go IWC?
Thanks!
I have both of those. Great watches. Both different imo. Not sure if I had to pick one, which I would choose. Probably the black bezel black bay to be honest, but for no reason other than it is currently my favourite out of the two.
As to the technical merits, there are others on the forum that could provide you with an excellent answer (and likely other recommendations - the Grand Seiko watches perhaps).
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Welp, I think its time I buy my first big boy watch.
cant decide–- Tudor Black bay or the IWC Pilot Chronograph... If IWC made the Big Pilot smaller.. so I guess the Pilot, with that dope winder, that would be my choice in a quick sec. That being said... Any tips on buying a watch in person? Do I negotiate price? Any tips?
Also for NYCers--- Wempe or Torneau... or IWC boutique if I go IWC?
Thanks!
For me personally the new Black Bay is the better watch to wear every day. The IWC pilots range are great but overall the Tudor beats them from a value point of view. The new in house Calibre is a nice point but there is nothing wrong with the ETA in the first watches, simple but so reliable and easy to service.
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I'd suggest hitting Wempe, Tourneau, and anyone else you think is interesting, and see what appeals. Sometimes things that look great on paper, aren't so good in the metal. Occasionally it goes the other way.
I haven't seen the IWC Pilot Chronograph. However, I would suggest taking a look at their Timezoner if you want to go that way.
If you like the Big Pilot watch, then consider getting one. A lot of people go on about how they can only wear pieces of a particular size, but I've found that it's more a case of getting used to something. Provided the lugs don't project beyond the edge of your wrist, you'll be fine.
As for Tudor, I'd go for the Black Bay in Bronze or
None-so-BlackDark.But have fun, and we demand pictures when you get your new watch!
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@louisbosco here's another Panerai for you, the new Bronzo. More pictures and details at Hodinkee.
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I'd suggest hitting Wempe, Tourneau, and anyone else you think is interesting, and see what appeals. Sometimes things that look great on paper, aren't so good in the metal. Occasionally it goes the other way.
I haven't seen the IWC Pilot Chronograph. However, I would suggest taking a look at their Timezoner if you want to go that way.
If you like the Big Pilot watch, then consider getting one. A lot of people go on about how they can only wear pieces of a particular size, but I've found that it's more a case of getting used to something. Provided the lugs don't project beyond the edge of your wrist, you'll be fine.
As for Tudor, I'd go for the Black Bay in Bronze or
None-so-BlackDark.But have fun, and we demand pictures when you get your new watch!
thanks
do you haggle when you buy? -
thanks
do you haggle when you buy?i've always believed you could. though i'm not really sure if this practice varies from country to country. my cousin is a brand manager for hublot at The Hour Glass, a retail luxury watch chain in asia/ south east asia. rolex wise, i know discounts are hardly given for the popular sport models eg. gmt, sub etc. but i've managed to get at least 10% off the RRP on my GMT with them, probably through connections.
that said, like a car, there's a "recommended" price they mark up and sell watches. they can definitely mark it down a little, sacrificing profits and commission, but it also depends at what point of the month you go in and how desperate are they to make that sale. finally, don't expect too much off the popular models. max i'd say 5%…
@louisbosco here's another Panerai for you, the new Bronzo. More pictures and details at Hodinkee.
sorry @Graeme not feeling the bronze. hahaha. we'll go further in depth when i'm over east.
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This is great, and I agree- probably a great daily wear watch.
This is the kind of watch I'd like a buddy to own. It's a monster that I'd never wear, but I'd love to get a chance to play with it.
And these two are just wonderfully strange. I love them both, but the MB&F is just a bit more weird, which makes it better.
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I'd suggest hitting Wempe, Tourneau, and anyone else you think is interesting, and see what appeals. Sometimes things that look great on paper, aren't so good in the metal. Occasionally it goes the other way.
I haven't seen the IWC Pilot Chronograph. However, I would suggest taking a look at their Timezoner if you want to go that way.
If you like the Big Pilot watch, then consider getting one. A lot of people go on about how they can only wear pieces of a particular size, but I've found that it's more a case of getting used to something. Provided the lugs don't project beyond the edge of your wrist, you'll be fine.
As for Tudor, I'd go for the Black Bay in Bronze or
None-so-BlackDark.But have fun, and we demand pictures when you get your new watch!
youre a damned genius
im a proud owner of a big pilot
treat yoself
will upload pics soon
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I'm not normally a fan of Panerai, but the LAB-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days PAM 700 is a big, black science experiment, with a fifty year guarantee. Want!
I like the look of that watch very very much. Sadly this is way out of my pricerange.
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I'm not normally a fan of Panerai, but the LAB-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days PAM 700 is a big, black science experiment, with a fifty year guarantee. Want!
I like the look of that watch very very much. Sadly this is way out of my pricerange.
I think this is fantastic. I'm a big fan of this brand.
Fifty year warranty is a bit misleading thought.
I'm sure it will need regulation and service and waterproofing a lot more frequently, 3-5 years. Panerai service costs can be eye watering expensive as they replace many parts because of discolouration.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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Paging @Tempvs and all other watch connoisseurs. In your opinion what is the best watch/watch brand(s) in the $1,000 - $1,500 range. Not a huge collector so at this time I can't justify spending $3K+ on a watch but have started to seriously consider adding a solid watch to my EDC. Am looking for something not huge and preferably with a face/dial that works well with a leather strap.
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Paging @Tempvs and all other watch connoisseurs. In your opinion what is the best watch/watch brand(s) in the $1,000 - $1,500 range. Not a huge collector so at this time I can't justify spending $3K+ on a watch but have started to seriously consider adding a solid watch to my EDC. Am looking for something not huge and preferably with a face/dial that works well with a leather strap.
Seiko in my view. Well made and so reliable. They represent fantastic value for money.
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@bubbapest Glad to hear that you got what you really wanted in the end.
The price for the big, black Panerai is €50K. I suspect if you can swallow that, you'll be able to cope with the service costs. I wonder how many will actually get worn regularly. I know that @Tempvs gets a lot of use out of his tourbillon, but I suspect a lot will live in safes for most of their existence.
I like it too, but it's out of my price bracket.
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Paging @Tempvs and all other watch connoisseurs. In your opinion what is the best watch/watch brand(s) in the $1,000 - $1,500 range. Not a huge collector so at this time I can't justify spending $3K+ on a watch but have started to seriously consider adding a solid watch to my EDC. Am looking for something not huge and preferably with a face/dial that works well with a leather strap.
I am in no way a watch connoisseur but I recently made the same decision as you mate. Ended up with a Sinn 104 St Sa.
http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m575/Johan_Jonsson/Sinn104/DSC_0451_zps89121094.jpg~original
41mm and within your price range. Absolutely love it.
