Watches - another OCD problem
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I like a lot of the designs that Omega produced during the Seventies, which had a very different visual language to what's come since. I think that the industry has become somewhat conservative.
Interestingly, Biver has both TAG Heuer and Zenith are doing both retro and contemporary designs. On the left is the Autavia limited edition for the UAE, which Hodinkee are very excited about, and the 02-T tourbillon.
I don't know if Hodinkee are setting the agenda, or merely reflecting what's cool, but they're really pushing the whole vintage thing. And they're influential enough that a lot of people are picking up on it.
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I never really got into the monochromatic trend, but that tourbillon is quite nice. The Autavia doesn't really excite me, which I guess is a shame, since of the two, that's the remotely affordable one.
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I got a very kind offer to buy a 41mm mechanical watch from a friend on the forum, so I went and “test drove” a bunch of watches around that size since I have no clue what my watches are haha
While I think my best bet is to take up the generous offer, I wanted to share the highlights from my outing today.
WARNING: I have absolutely no clue about watches, so these are heavily uneducated comments
Tried on the 38mm Baume & Mercier divers - really impressed with them
Cool one with a sailcloth band
Then the automatic 44mm Seiko - was super impressed by this one at the price point
“Just to be sure” - 18K gold Submariner haha
Was SUPER impressed with this classic dive style from the local jeweler - uses a mechanical TAG movement (Calibre?? If that’s the right thing). The semi coated black bezel had a great hand to it and the orange face were kinda cool. Great value as well
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That last one is water resistant to 20 atmospheres, which is generally equivalent to 200 meters of depth. I'd call that a "real" dive watch.
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I used to own a B&M Capeland. My experience is that the services are expensive. I eventually had to replace the face and hands (!) due to gunky EOM lubricant, after 10 years or so. I've now moved on to Omega. I would not recommend B&M (although I still love the Capeland's design). (Not my pic.)
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That last one is water resistant to 20 atmospheres, which is generally equivalent to 200 meters of depth. I'd call that a "real" dive watch.
That makes more sense than “20 aquatic meters” which the guy and I agreed probably made sense haha
So yeah.. real dive watch and post amended lol [emoji23]
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I used to own a B&M Capeland. My experience is that the services are expensive.
I can see that - supposedly they were “recently” acquired by the same group that produces Panerai, so hopefully they have the bugs worked out. I agree their designs are beautiful, but the salesman mentioned the $500 service that has to be “sent off for.”
The salesman seemed to be very knowledgeable, but it was odd they only stocked Seiko and Baume and nothing else in between or above. Sadly, Rolex pulled all stock from the Mobile, Alabama area, which screwed over a lot of shops. The local jeweler near me has a great selection of Omega and Breitling only to be told by Rolex that it was “us or them” - then when the jewelers couldn’t meet their “150 units” goals per year, they pulled stock and took away their licenses, with very little stock left to push after breaking relationships with the other companies.
One place still sells refurbished pieces (hence the sub I tried), but they had like 3 watches in stock, so it’s slim Pickens around here…
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Google tells me B&M got bought by the Richemont group back in 1988, so I doubt there will be any radical changes coming down the pike with them. Servicing, especially for chronographs, is what really bites you in the ass with luxury watches. That said, if you can get one with a super common movement that's been around for decades, like the ETA 2824, 2892, or 7750, servicing can often be done by a competent local watch shop (if such a thing exists nearby) for a bit of savings.
On the other hand, I've actually read about guys that will never have their watch serviced, wait until it seizes up, then buy a complete new movement and have a local repair shop swap it in. If you only have to do that once every 10-15 years, it might be the cheaper option.
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@Appfaff you need that Submariner for the whole plutocrat look.
I found an Omega Seamaster limited edition today. I'm a fan of the Railmaster, but this is equally as nice. They're probably a similar price to a Submariner, but rarer. I'd get it over the Rolex.
Sorry about the photo. My phone's camera was misbehaving.
Also the Omega Tourbillon. No, I can't afford it!
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Ok, now that is seriously cool.
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Hodinkee have brought out one of their limited editions that:
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Mere mortals can afford.
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Hasn't sold out in minutes.
It's a Swatch Sistem 51 watch, based on a 1984 watch from their second collection. It looks quite fun, and is a not unreasonable $150.
More details at the 'Dink.
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As well as the Omegas, I also took a look at a LUC XP in stainless steel at the weekend. @goodrain will be pleased to see no fake patina here.
It's a very pretty watch. The strap is blue cashmere with an alligator skin backing, the case is really slim, and the movement is nicely finished.
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Hodinkee have brought out one of their limited editions that:
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Mere mortals can afford.
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Hasn't sold out in minutes.
It's a Swatch Sistem 51 watch, based on a 1984 watch from their second collection. It looks quite fun, and is a not unreasonable $150.
More details at the 'Dink.
This is a sharp watch. And one that I can afford.
Pardon my lack of good watch knowledge. Would you consider this brand over others at a similar price point?
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@celik the Sistem51 is a way for Swatch to manufacture a cheap, mechanical movement. I'm not sure whether they can be serviced, I think that they're reasonably accurate.
They're probably not a bad bet for $150 or so.
Tissot have produced the Swissmatic, which Hodinkee covered recently. It's an upgraded derivative of the Sistem51, and replaces some of the plastic parts with metal, which should make it more durable. They start at $395, so a bump up for the Swatch.
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On the other hand, I've actually read about guys that will never have their watch serviced, wait until it seizes up, then buy a complete new movement and have a local repair shop swap it in. If you only have to do that once every 10-15 years, it might be the cheaper option.
Funny enough, I had a friends who’s dad bought me a fake Franck Muller in Chinatown back in 2005. It has a mechanical movement, and somehow still works. It has been my most reliable watch for more than a decade and actually works very well… Part of me wonders if the fake was made better than the real thing haha [emoji23]
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@celik glad to help
@Appfaff I saw a comment the other day that the ETA movements are super reliable because so many have been made, and all the problems have been ironed out over time. The chances are that the fake Franck Muller uses one of these, or a clone such as a Selita, so that might explains its lifespan.
Then again, real Mullers also use an ETA based movement.
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I’ll take a pic of it later and maybe you can recognize the movement since it’s a glass back.
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