Iron Heart Cuts Overview
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I'm glad I found this thread. I've been lurking for a good while, trying to determine which cut should be my first pair of Iron Heart denim. I've been looking at each cut and have been left a little bewildered though undeterred.
I'm hoping the faithful and knowledgeable denim heads here can recommend my next pair. it would join three IH shirts.
First, I'll start with what I like with fits and then measurements important to me. In the eight or so pairs of raw denim I've gathered over the last few years, I find that a full top block suits my athletic mid-section. (and my backside, to which my wife constantly reminds me of how much she likes it). I take this to mean that mid to full rise suits me better because there's enough fabric up top and out back to cover the ol' pamplemousse. So I've interpreted this to mean that nearly all slim and skinny cuts won't work.
Measurements for me tend to come in well around 11-ish inches front rise and a 15-ish back rise. The waist is usually 33 to 34.5, depending on the denim. This usually puts in tags 31 and 32 for many brands and probably a 33 tag for most Iron Heart cuts.
I'm mostly a boot guy when it comes to selvage denim and I've come to like an ~8-ish inch opening. A little less if I'm wearing cowboy boots and a little more if the boots are chunkier. And I've found a knee of about 8 to 9 inches to be a sweet spot; 8 if it's a cowboy cut and 9 inches for a proper straight cut.
The 634 looks like it could be a contender, but it sports a bigger knee and hem of 9.5 and 9.2, respectively. That seems a little big to me. The 777 looks to slim things up just enough in the knee and opening. Is that my jam? Then there's the 888...
Am I thinking about all this correctly? Or, more likely, am I overthinking it?
And lastly, I intend on either the 25 oz or 21/23 oz because full send!
Safety third
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@Bobcat-Sig Have you looked at the 666 cut? Smaller hem opening versus the 634. Gotta watch the thigh measurement with the 666 though.
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@Bobcat-Sig Please email the Iron Heart Crew at shop@ironheart.co.uk and they will steer you in the right direction. The guys that work there are the best guide to help you along your journey.
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@bluemantra said in Iron Heart Cuts Overview:
@Bobcat-Sig Have you looked at the 666 cut? Smaller hem opening versus the 634. Gotta watch the thigh measurement with the 666 though.
The cut number alone has my attention. I do remember looking at it, though I likely wasn't sure and kept wading through the cuts and their measurements. I'll give it another look. Thank you,
@goosehd said in Iron Heart Cuts Overview:
@Bobcat-Sig Please email the Iron Heart Crew at shop@ironheart.co.uk and they will steer you in the right direction. The guys that work there are the best guide to help you along your journey.
Will do. Thank you!
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@Bobcat-Sig I also highly recommend the compare feature on the website:
You can add up to three items to directly compare measurements. This may make life easier for you when deciding which cut and fabric to choose
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@Bobcat-Sig Great to hear you are looking at adding a pair of jeans to the collection! will definitely make a fine addition. When looking at UHR or XHS denim it is really important to remember the shrinkage that will take effect within the denim when you soak/wash them, you can expect approximately 1" in the waist and length for the XHS (25oz), and 1" inch in the waist and 1-2 inch" approximately in the length for the UHR (21/23oz).
In terms of a cut, I would be inclined to look at 888 personally it does sit higher then our other jeans and the jeans you have mentioned, but it does give you a nice little taper and still works well with boots, if you are okay with a higher rise then could be a good place to start. I would have a look at a tag 33/34 for both UHR and XHS denim. I would just double check your thigh measurement on your jeans as well as this will be important.
When trying a new brand and their jeans, there can be an element of trial and error to ensure the sizing is perfect so I wouldn't get too caught up and over think anything, trust the measurements and the measuring process and measuring video on our product pages to help narrow down a good fit.
You do sound like your on the right lines but if you do want myself or anyone here to double check any measurements please don't hesitate to reach out shop@ironheart.co.uk and we will be here to help.
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@sabergirl Oh, nice! Self Edge is in my town, though I've not yet been to that location. I'll give that cut a look. Thank you!
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got to try out the 888s in 19L. Fantastic. Been wearing 777s for last 4yrs. 888 fits better. Esp in top block. Maybe after I get hemmed and if i need more taper, I’ll see about having Rain do it? Interestingly I found that my optimal inseam for the higher rise (888s) is 0.5-1” longer. Considering my main failure mode with my 777s is with crotch seams, I wonder if 888s on me would hold up better there too?
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