@JDelage I saw a preproduction LUC XPS 1860 in Amsterdam on Monday, and it's a lovely piece. It's pretty small, with a 36 mm diameter, but the finishing is probably up there with a Patek. I'd be tempted by one over most of the Calatrava range.
I don't know if I'd go for the 1860 over everything else in the Only Watch auction. The F.P. Journe is really nice.
Last year Chopard put their 8 Hz movement in the Alpine Eagle, albeit in a titanium case. That had a monochrome grey dial and case. They've brought out a new version, this time with a black dial and orange second hand. I didn't like it in the press photos, but when I got to see one in the metal, I preferred it to the original.
Incidentally, the XPS 1860 movement has been put into the Alpine Eagle, which will be a lovely piece. Unfortunately, the Chopard boutique didn't have one in stock.
I dropped by the IWC boutique a couple of doors down and took a look at the Inginieur. It's a nice watch and the case feels solid, in a similar way that a Rolex does.
The issue for me is that in titanium it costs about €16K, whilst the Alpine Eagle Cadence is €22K. The Chopard is better finished and has a more interesting movement, so it'd be worth stumping up the extra for it unless the Gerard Genta connection is important to you.
Lastly, I took a look in the Seiko boutique and found a Grand Seiko SBGJ229. That's a big, blue titanium and ceramic GMT from 2018 or 2019. I thought that they would have sold out years ago.