Posts made by JohnM

Beautiful Graham -- thanks (you too Alex). I saw an older oxblood cordovan wallet on the forums that had seen a lot more use (12 years, if I recall). There were some spots where the cordovan shell (or oxblood dye) was wearing through to the underlying tan leather. I'd guess this would be less obvious with natural cordovan over time, but it's, in part, what prompted the question of how cordovan wears vs. calf. Only time will tell, but I'm sure both will look great, and wear like ... iron

Great thread and pictures. Interesting how the tan seems to be preferred over black -- I'm sure both are great.

Anyone compared these beautiful calf IH wallets to the same design in cordovan?

I'm trying to decide between the cordovan and calf versions of the 'small', slimline wallet (no coin pouch) -- same design, just different leathers and prices. I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who has owned one or both regarding how they compare over time.

https://www.ironheart.co.uk/accessories/ihg-035.html

https://www.ironheart.co.uk/accessories/IHG-071-NAT.html

Just picked up an XL at Self Edge SF and love it. I expected to be an L, given I wear XL in IH shirts and most have said to size down on the N1. But XL is a really nice fit -- a little big with a tee shirt but perfect with a long sleeve shirt or flannel.

Appreciate that IH chose not to line the sleeves with alpaca. The quilted satin lining is perfect -- less bulky and more comfortable. Do wish the interior pocket was a little bigger but still glad it's there.

Love the 1955-UHR and am open to trying it in another denim. Also considering the 888. I’d guess there are some similarities between these cuts.

^ great fit and beautiful jacket.

Giles, I tried one of these one the other day and loved the design, fabric, color, and details.  But I passed because I thought the sleeves were long.  But it sounds like this is intended in the design.  Is this because they tend to ride a little higher with use or because longer sleeves are useful for certain activities, like riding a motorcycle.  Not questioning, just interested in learning something, thanks.

Also, regarding sizing, I typically wear an XL in IH shirts, but the XL N-1 seemed big.  Is it common to size down in this or other IH jackets?  Sorry for the newb questions.

Tried one on this weekend.  Beautiful jacket (material, color, details) but the proportions weren't quite right for me – arms were a bit long relative to the body.  Was a bit surprised as most shirts and jackets from IH have fit me well in the past.

@Bums_Fan:

I know this information is fairly well documented for UHR denim, but I figured I would share my experience with new, soak and two (cold and hot) washes.  I find this information useful when researching purchases.  Hopefully, you will too.

As you will see, the before and after measurements are not significantly different.  I was actually hoping for more shrinkage and thus I did a second hot wash.  Didn't do much at all.  Against my better judgement and experience, I went with tag 36.  The post wash fit is significantly more relaxed compared to my other IH jeans (all 888 cut).  The denim still needs to settle and I was seeking a slightly more relaxed fit, but in hindsight I wish I had purchased a tag 35.

IH-888S-UHR Tag 36

New
Waist: 36.1"
Front Rise: 12.5"
Rear Rise: 17"
Thigh: 14.4"
Knee: 10"
Hem: 9"
Inseam: 36.6"

Post Soak & Washes (cold and hot)
Waist: 35.5"
Front Rise: 12.2"
Rear Rise: 16.7"
Thigh: 14.1"
Knee: 9.7"
Hem: 8.7"
Inseam: 35.7"

Note: all measurements performed the IH way

Appreciate that Bums_Fan.  Are the post-soak/wash measurements (especially the 35.5" waist) after some wear/stretch or straight after the wash routine?

I was in Self Edge today.  They were out of the 888S 21oz. in size 36, but I tried on the same size in the 888S-14oz. – the fit was perfect.  While tempted, I'm still leaning toward the 21oz. (or even the heavier UHR).

For those familiar with both denims, would sizing be the same (i.e., 36) or should I size down to 35 in the 21oz. due to the likely stretch?

@neph93:

@JohnM:

Given that you have a size 34 in both the 21 oz. and UHR, what is your natural waistline?  Mine is 35.5".

Natural waistline is not a good metric to use when sizing. As counterintuitive as that sounds, it is true. Do the following:

1. Find a pair of used jeans that you like the fit of.
2. Using the IH method shown in the films on product pages, measure the waist.
3. Compare that measurement with the size charts.

• when comparing with 21oz, add an inch to the size chart measurement to account for stretch.
• do a straight comparison with UHR. The shrinkage and stretch more or less cancel each other out.

Appreciate that neph93.  Using your method, jeans that fit me well measure 35.5" in the waist, so I'd be a size 35 in both the 21oz. and UHR.  The waist on the size 35 21oz. is 34.4", which would yield 35.4" after stretch.  The waist on the size 35 UHR is 35.7".

Thanks weftyarn.  I do remember an old pair of 634S with the 21 oz. denim – very soft and pliable, as you suggest.  And I also remember UHR from an IH-1955 that I still have and enjoy -- like body armor, with less give to the denim, so there's less room for error in sizing.

Given that you have a size 34 in both the 21 oz. and UHR, what is your natural waistline?  Mine is 35.5".

Makes sense that the 21 oz. 888 would have more give in the waist, but interesting that it's cut a little trimmer down below.  Do you think this is sample variation or inherent to the cut?

With a natural 35.5" waist, I'm torn between size 35 and 36 in the 888S UHR.  Suggestions appreciated.

My preference is for a comfortable and relaxed (but not loose or sloppy) fit in the waist.  I typically do a warm cycle wash, then hang dry.

Thanks,
John

With a natural 35.5" waist, I'm torn between size 35 and 36 in the 21 oz. 888S.  Suggestions appreciated.

In terms of fit preferences, I'm hoping they end up comfortable and slightly relaxed (but not sloppy or loose) as opposed to tight or trim.

Thanks,
John

Great looking pictures from everyone – just went through all the pages!  I have a Self Edge SEIH22Type III (20 oz.), which is also very dark, heavy, and stiff, but am tempted by the IHxVS-T1-DD.  Simple and classic with interesting details (e.g., buttons).

I'm a 44 in the Type III (not unlike the IH-526L Lefty Trucker) so would guess I'd be a 44 in the Type I.  For those who have washed theirs, are you seeing a bit of shrinkage?  I'm a little concerned the size 44 sleeves will be long but if they come up a bit, it should be fine.

John

Seul, the 1955-UHR looks good on you.

The fit isn't for everyone, but if you have relatively big hips and legs (as I do) and find other cuts a little trim below the waist, the 1955 works really well.  It is a different cut, no doubt.  For anyone considering them, don't size up.  As long as the waist is OK there's a lot of room down below.  I wear a 34 in the 1955-UHR but usually have to size up to 36 in other IH models just to get the hips and thighs to be comfortable.

John

The 18 oz. Beatle Busters are my favorite Iron Heart jeans … and I've had a few, including the 1955-UHR, 633s, and 634s.  The denim feel and weight is just right and the fit works well for me, with a higher rise and pretty trim down below.  Good work Iron Heart and thanks to Matt Winch for sizing assistance.

John

Thanks Giles.

36 because the 34 waist might be small or the hips/thighs?  Or both?

John

Giles,

Is the denim on these the same as on the 1955-UHR, just darker in tone?

Also, if I'm a 34 in the 1955-UHR (waist is pretty tight, the rest is very loose), should I go 34 or 36 on these?

Thanks.
John

Anodsasgoodasawink,

Interesting about the slight rise difference of the 1955S and 1955-UHR.  I have only the UHR and have found the rise (both front and back) to be relatively high (which I like) not unlike my Fullcount 1101 or 0105.  If the 1955S rise is a touch higher, that will work.

I'm not familiar with the Real McCoy's Lot 002 but was considering the Lot 003, which has a very high back rise in size 34 (17.75") but only a moderate front rise (11.75").  A 6" spread between front and back is atypical, as you know.

Giles, with all this IH-1955 forum traffic, I'm hoping that you've sold 35 pairs in the last few days and are gearing up to reorder 300 new 1955's (100 1955S, 100 in 25 oz., and 100 in 17 oz.

John