Role Club By Brian the Bootmaker
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Lasting the counter with nothing other than brass tacks. I always have the cobbler in mind who will one day resole these boots in the future. I want to leave a good impression of what Role Club quality is all about. I will do my best to be second to none. Wear'Em With Pride.
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There are certain steps I would choose machine made over handmade, but hand-welting is a step in my opinion that should never be skipped. "Pride Produces Quality Work." -Role Club
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… Just awesome. -
Wow…those are looking really spectacular. Those have to be in the running for my first engineers... Will the black horse that you're using be dyed all the way through or will it have a tan base?
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@Bluegrass Glad they made it safe!
@grandmasterben the goes hide will have a natural brown flesh side.
Inspecting the shafts alignment before lasting the counter. You use one knee for the height of heel. This quick inspection was used by my teacher when he had to last 75 pairs a day. My hats off to his hard work.
This is the black CXL horshide.
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No worries! And agreed, stuff like that is rarely something that you can learn about. I love how toe tracks look!
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Interesting. Cowboy boot makers crimp the vamps exactly the same way, but I've never seen a pair with toe tracks.
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My RCs don't have them but I do like them.
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@BrianTheBootmaker thanks much for the insight of your upcoming engineers wow
Update on my RW makeover by Brian, going strong and still glossy
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Before and after shaping the heel.
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When I worked on vintage Chippewa & Sears engineer boots I always thought it was COOL how they put a small double capped rivet to keep the buckle in place. This little guy will age well with the brass roller buckle.
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Alden chukka boot resole w/ Biltrite Halfsoles and Catspaw heels
