IH-634-XHS - 25oz Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jeans - Indigo
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Here's the situation.
Haraki actually used not to really give a toss about selvedge. It was the fabric that he was more interested in. He probably still sells more IH-634 (non selvedge) than IH-634S in Japan. When I started working with him I explained that it was quite important in the west and he started to appreciate that having selvedge details made a difference. All of the cuts that I have initiated: 666, 555, 777, Buster, 1955S, DC4s and a host of other collabs have had selvedge detailing and some have lined pockets (if I remembered to spec them at the time).
H and I have talked about updating the 634S, trouble is when do we do it? What do we do with all the suddenly less desirable versions? And you know what? There's a shit load of options in the jeans department in our portfolio and we always have something more important to do…....
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H and I have talked about updating the 634S, trouble is when do we do it? What do we do with all the suddenly less desirable versions? And you know what? There's a shit load of options in the jeans department in our portfolio and we always have something more important to do…....
No need to update. It's your signature cut for a reason, and I'd rather see what interesting fabrics you come up with for my next shirt than spending time adding selvedge details to a product that's already perfect. I'm planning on buying another 634S in the next year, and I don't give a shit how many more selvedge details there are on it. I like that there's some selvedge detail, but more of it won't make the jeans fit any better, and it won't improve the feel of the fabric as it ages, which to me is the most important thing. Nothing better than a perfectly broken-in pair of jeans.
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^ I'm with the Wolf on this one, the classic should stay the classic imo. You guys do enough different editions of your cuts to suit every taste, and after a few months of wear your love for you jeans has bugger all to do with a selvedge fly or lined rear pockets.
The anniversary of you and H hooking up is definitely worthy of celebration, I suggest that you both pick an item of clothing, co design it, and release it as the IH-*** International Anniversary Edition. Limit numbers, do a pre order, make it awesome.
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@den213 I can't speak for @Giles but I can give you my opinion. That stuff really doesn't matter. Sewn in belt loops are neat, but will never be something that I seek out specifically. In fact, I have a pair of Iron Hearts with sewn in belt loops that annoy me a little when I'm putting my belt on because the belt gets caught at every loop. Lined pockets are a nice touch, but not necessary. Please see my previous post about selvedge. And at the end of the day…. it's the CLASSIC cut. What do you want more selvedge for? To show it off to your friends? Additionally, I don't want all of my IH products to be the same. It's nice that they're all a little different. It shows the craftsmanship and the human element in the design process. Part of what makes Iron Heart a unique company is that input is welcome and accepted, and I know that what I'm buying has been designed to be the best. Selvedge lines, lined pockets, and sewn in belt loops do nothing for the quality of jeans and are clever details but that's where it ends. Function over form dude.
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Also, there are so many other IH models that do have all these added bells and whistles that if they really are important to people it isn't like they don't have a pair of jeans you could buy.
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My thoughts are, since the 634 is that important and well selling, it may include these features, too, so many more people can see / enjoy them. They don't hurt but add even more quality to these already astonishing jeans and its unique denim. I didn't know it lacked those details because they are for me - personally - a trademark of IH that distinguish them from other brands additionally. At the end of the day G and H decide whether they want to update.
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I don't love lined pockets- I live in a hot, humid climate and the extra layer of fabric makes my ass sweat more.
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@den213:
They don't hurt but add even more quality.
How do these details add more quality? Are you saying that the current design is inferior?
I don't love lined pockets- I live in a hot, humid climate and the extra layer of fabric makes my ass sweat more.
Agreed. I like the option to not have them on my classic 634S.
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@den213:
They don't hurt but add even more quality to these already astonishing jeans and its unique denim.
Sure thing. Let me try again with the complete sentence. How do these details add more quality? Are you saying that the current design is inferior? I guess what I'm getting at here, is do extra selvedge lines add to the quality of the jeans? Are you saying that fewer selvedge lines make for a product with decreased quality? When I think of something of quality, I think of it's durability. for expample, a mass produced leather product stitched with a machine isn't at the same quality level of a leather product that's stitched by hand. There's an obvious quality difference there. Do sewn in belt loops add to the quality? Are you saying that because the current 634 design doesn't have this feature that they're of lesser quality? Should I be asking Iron Heart for a refund because my jeans are inferior and will fall apart prematurely at the belt loops?