WAYWT - The Hard Labour Edition aka "Working in your workwear".
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I'm looking forward to the day when my UHR become work jeans.
Mine became workwear sooner than I had planned. After the initial soak, I followed instruction, and gave them a machine wash. Unfortunately, I neglected to change the water level setting on my top loader. The agitator had its way with them. They were covered in slashes of missing indigo. I figured some time at work would help. It did. The marks are far less noticeable, now.
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As promised here are some photos of what I do. Unfortunately it was 90+ degrees, I wore Wranglers. I'll grab a selfie in one of the pairs I wore later and post it here.
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Seven days later
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What all this is, in the first photos are a boost pump, large filter, water softener, carbon tanks, which remove chlorine that the city puts in. Then the RO which removes 99.9% of everything else from water. From the RO, the water goes through a UV light into a storage tank, pumped through filters to remove dead bacteria, out to a loop that will feed Dialysis machines, then return and merge with the water that goes to the UV light. The process is a bit more complicated, this is the 99 cent version.
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Wow.. complicated stuff [emoji848]
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Well into stage two of this summers project. Building about 60m2 of decking over two levels. Some of it will be attached to pre-existing structures while some is "floating". One of the things you have to take into account in northern Norway is that the ground will be frozen to a depth of 100-150cm for about five months of the year. The ground therefore expands and the level rises by as much as 2cm, before falling again in May. This means any structures resting in the ground without an appropriate fundament are subject to being lifted and dumped down over the course of a year.
Had to change work pants as the 666XHS were dangerously close to crotch blow out. Using my 555N which are a bit looser in the waist and top block than I'd like. They only had about 40 days gentle wear on them and weren't showing much fading at all when I started using them.
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Great project! And the jeans are looking good too!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Didn't stay clean for long
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Well into stage two of this summers project. Building about 60m2 of decking over two levels. Some of it will be attached to pre-existing structures while some is "floating". One of the things you have to take into account in northern Norway is that the ground will be frozen to a depth of 100-150cm for about five months of the year. The ground therefore expands and the level rises by as much as 2cm, before falling again in May. This means any structures resting in the ground without an appropriate fundament are subject to being lifted and dumped down over the course of a year.
looks great bud. so how are you going to avoid the issue of rising and falling due to the frost? here in the northeast part of the US we have the same issue in the winter. when we are installing any type of structure we have to make sure the footing and foundation for the structure sit at a minimum of 42" below grade. the project looks great by the way. keep up the good work and post more pics.
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@Matty123 Cheers!
I've built an outhouse and a raised veranda on the property so far and a couple of raised verandas at previous properties I've owned. The previous verandas were built on concrete pillars that I sunk 150cm so that the bottoms were below the freezing zone. On this plot the mountain/bedrock is only about 100-120cm away from the surface so the outhouse and veranda are built on concrete pillars that I've fixed to the bedrock by drilling into it and sinking iron pins then casting the concrete around those pins. this means the frost won't lift them anywhere and they won't slide sideways either.
Given that some of the deck that is under construction is attached to the house, veranda or outhouse then I don't have to worry about lateral movement, but fastening the whole thing on concrete pillars to the bedrock was out of the question because of the level I need it at. Instead of digging holes for pillars I'd have had to strip out a few metric tons of soil and rock. So I've used a method were I dig out shallow holes 50x50 and 20-30cm deep then fill them with compacted drainage gravel. Then I level out a 30x30x5cm concrete slab on top of the gravel and lay my beams on them. I'm building on a 6x2" frame so the beans are 60cm apart and I need to support them every 200cm. The idea is that the concrete slabs won't freeze, and the drainage gravel won't either because the water drains away from it. These means that the freezing soil will rise and fall around the gravel pits and concrete, and won't lift it. I'll take a picture tomorrow to illustrate it better.
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Started a new job a couple of weeks ago
We have taken down a couple of massive trees, a York stone wall, shed and got rid of the lawn and spread 20 tonnes of top soil. We are going to put a rockery in with retaining wall as well as various over things to basically transform this tired garden.
burnt the shed
which I really enjoyed
lawn off
recused a family of mice
all while wearing my 634s GR and my 141
oh and got to drive a dumper for the first time
Can't say I miss the office life at all!!
Oh here is how the jeans are getting along
Looking forward to getting my DWC 888's because I think they will look great after a few months of hard work
