IHSH-332-SAX - Ultra Heavy Flannel Anniversary Check Western Shirt - Sax
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Probably for a general thread, though curious to know what denotes the sleeve length. Why such differences across UHF's. Is it a technical limitation with fabric or weave or more a preference when designed. I realise in this instance it may be to be true to the original but always wondered why so many differ.
One reason that has been given for the variation is that the fabric reacts differently to the dyes of the various colors.
True
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There are quite a few of these on eBay. Are they counterfeits?
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@waXology I think the only people who would be able to answer this question is @Giles @Alex or Haraki.
The longer sleeves in the past was a purposed design in regards to riding motorcycles and sleeves riding up as you ride.
Fortunately, the UHF sleeves have increased in length over the years. The early ones, such as the IHSH-32 and the maroon buffalo check had uncomfortably short sleeves. They were about 24 inches on a medium. Much shorter than the 26 inches on the modern UHF mediums.
Super interesting about the longer due to riding. I love features designed for a purpose. Reminds me of a couple flannels from another JP brand that have 24" sleeves in a sz42. Super short which i grew to absolutely love. They are both work shirts which I always assumed had shorter sleeves for well, ease of working? There's a sweet spot though and I'm still enjoying finding it
Yep, longer sleeves help a lot when riding a motorcycle. I also appreciate it when sitting in the car, which (let's be honest) I do more often than riding my motorcycle. All this being said, I have long arms, so I have spent most of my life trying unsuccessfully to find long sleeve shirts that don't ride up my forearms.
As to the sizing up discussion, I have to agree with those who say "Use the size charts every time". Occasionally I order a size larger or smaller based on measurements, but sometimes a piece just doesn't work out for me in any size.
I would add this advice: if in doubt, size up. I'm very familiar with my ideal shirt measurements, but I've still been burned by more than one shirt that was close on measurements and ended up being too small - usually in the sleeve circumference.As to the sizing up on UHFs - I will say, I can sometimes go down to XL in denim and Chambray IHs shirts, but I always buy an XXL in UHFs - they seem to be consistently too narrow in the chest for me in an XL. I can even get away with XXXL in some UHFs, so long as the sleeves aren't over 28" long.
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99% of sizing is absolute crap when you are comparing different companies and their sizing methods. Saying that I wear XL in Filson so that I should get XXL in Iron Heart is an absolute disaster when choosing and picking sizes….
Exactly this. Size chart all things.
Im a MEDIUM in Filson "vintage flannels"; Iron Heart western…XXXL !!!
Well.. we all know that Filson Shirts and Jackets only fit a tribe of Pacific NW barrel chested fat dwarfs with excessively short arms ???
This made me laugh out loud! Pacific NW dwarves with short arms…
As tall guy with long arms, I've always joked that Schott jackets were designed for the short barrel chested Italian guys you see in NYC / Jersey.There are quite a few of these on eBay. Are they counterfeits?
I was thinking this too since they popped up days before the actual IHUK release. Good to know they're likely genuine.
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Sizing Experience
Here's my experience regarding the sizing of this shirt.
Shirt Selection
I've always worn size Medium in UHFs. The one place that a UHF can potentially not fit me well is along the sides, at the top of the upside-down U. Some are too short and it's almost possible to see my skin between the shirt and my belt.It's been my experience that overdying does not shrink all products in a particular run identically. Fortunately, I was in Gosport last weekend and was able to measure the side seam of all Mediums on the rack and there was a variation of approximately a half an inch between the longest and shortest shirts.
I narrowed my selection down to the 4 shirts with the longest side seams and tried each of them on. Variations in the other dimensions were not noticeable visually so I selected the one which felt like it had the tightest arms and cuffs.
Shrinkage
The overdying process removes most of the shrinkage and my measurements confirm this. The only noticeable shrinkage was in the sleeves (1 cm). Note that wearing the shirt also caused creases around the inner side of the elbow and that accounted for almost another centimeter of lost length.| Measurement | New | Washed | Worn |
| Shoulder | 43.0 | 43.0 | 43.5 |
| Length | 73.5 | 73.0 | 73.0 |
| Arm | 67.25 | 66.25 | 65.5 |
| Chest | 53.0 | 53.0 | 53.0 |
| Waist | 51.5 | 51.25 | 51.5 |
| Opening | 51.5 | 51.25 | 51.5 |
| Cuff | 11.5 | 11.25 | 11.5 | -
Sizing Experience
Here's my experience regarding the sizing of this shirt.
Shirt Selection
I've always worn size Medium in UHFs. The one place that a UHF can potentially not fit me well is along the sides, at the top of the upside-down U. Some are too short and it's almost possible to see my skin between the shirt and my belt.It's been my experience that overdying does not shrink all products in a particular run identically. Fortunately, I was in Gosport last weekend and was able to measure the side seam of all Mediums on the rack and there was a variation of approximately a half an inch between the longest and shortest shirts.
I narrowed my selection down to the 4 shirts with the longest side seams and tried each of them on. Variations in the other dimensions were not noticeable visually so I selected the one which felt like it had the tightest arms and cuffs.
Shrinkage
The overdying process removes most of the shrinkage and my measurements confirm this. The only noticeable shrinkage was in the sleeves (1 cm). Note that wearing the shirt also caused creases around the inner side of the elbow and that accounted for almost another centimeter of lost length.| Measurement | New | Washed | Worn |
| Shoulder | 43.0 | 43.0 | 43.5 |
| Length | 73.5 | 73.0 | 73.0 |
| Arm | 67.25 | 66.25 | 65.5 |
| Chest | 53.0 | 53.0 | 53.0 |
| Waist | 51.5 | 51.25 | 51.5 |
| Opening | 51.5 | 51.25 | 51.5 |
| Cuff | 11.5 | 11.25 | 11.5 |Did you find the arm/cuff to be particularly roomy on this shirt compared to other UHFs?
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I felt that the cuff was a bit looser than the other UHFs. But I have skinny arms.
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Well I got mine and I love it. I didn't find the sizing/fit to be noticeably different than my other UHF's normal variance. Not as generous as some, but certainly not so tight as to change my sizing. Unfortunately my wife's foray didn't work out.
The listed measurements were all quite right, but the arm hole opening on the ladies medium (what I've learned is called the arm sigh) was too uncomfortable for her. The thick flannel seam jammed right into her armpit, and decided that was just not gonna work for her, no matter how much she'd like to match me. Ah well.
That said, an amazing shirt, love it, so glad to add this into my inventory.
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@rydor My wife has ran into the same issue at different times. She is the women's medium or the men's XS. If one won't work, the other often will.
It doesn't look like IHUK has any more XS, but maybe one of the vendors has one. You could also request a restock notification if an XS does come available from IHUK.
It may work yet…
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Yeah as far as I can tell there were no XS in this run at all (I don’t know where the measurements came from but I know they never hit this site or other stockists that I ever saw.). That said she was more into a ladies cut but now realizes how amazing UHF is. I found a nice second hand XS on ebay for discount and ordered that as a good try on piece and if that works I guess we will have to fuel that addiction.
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@rydor Think about the sizes like a bell curve with the peak being the Larges and XL's and the xs and the xxxl's being the extreme sides of either end. (Random Bell Curve for Illustrative Purpose)
There are never many of the "ends" available, and the xs's may have sold out before the go live ever happened.
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…and congratulations on finding her a flannel. My wife resisted for the longest time until the one day I finally broke down and got her one. She tried it on and said it was nice, didn't love it, but over the next few weeks I saw her wearing it more and more. After about two weeks, she was going through the releases picking out her next one...
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I was able to resist the 634 Anni, as I couldn’t justify another pair of jeans but just bought the SAX from The Shop Vancouver…
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Today my shirt arrived: WOW! These colours… I was waiting for a remake of the turquoise IHSH-207. But the anniversary shirt is much better!!!
Honestly speaking I wasn‘t sure about the right size this time. Usually I get all my UHFs with size XL. Out of the bag they are kind of big because I am always between 2 sizes: L and XL. But after a wash (60 degrees C) all my UHFs fit perfectly.
But as this shirt comes overdyed I wasn‘t sure if XL might be too big because of missing shrinkage potential. Reading the measurement chart before my purchase order I thought I definitely need some shrinkage regarding the sleeve length and chest. But you know what: this shirt fits perfectly out of the bag. No hot wash with shrinkage potential is needed. So happy!
By the way: thanks @ironheartgermany for the fast shipping!
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just ordered mine, could not resist
chose L , like all of my UHFs ….hope it fits , a bit worried about shoulder and sleeves
