IH-634S-SBG - 21oz Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jeans - SBG
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@yannis Based on a recent pair of 555S-SBG (and some yet unworn BS69xSOP420) I found them to be quite soft. Regular 21oz is perhaps a slight bit softer, but the SBG was very comfortable right from the first wear.
From my experience, which seem to correlate with what I've read around here, the reactive dyed weft makes things slightly stiffer, but not by a whole lot. I also felt that my XHSBB was stiffer from the start than XHS for instance. A bit hard to compare though, different cuts, different batches etc.
I also seem to remember reading that previous versions of SBG (which I haven't got personal experience with) were a bit stiffer than the current version. Some were also raw from what I recall.
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Thank you also @JunkPants. So i should expect something similar to 21oz or slightly stiffer. Stiff don't bother me at all. It just makes a difference on hemming. I usually cut stiffer jeans longer as they don't drape as much.
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@yannis Most welcome, and as always your mileage may vary
Interesting point about hemming as well. I've never really considered the drape when deciding hem length, but that does make a lot of sense.
I occasionally like a longer inseam for jeans with a narrow leg opening, for a bit of stacking, and typically go for a shorter, stack free, inseam with wider leg openings.
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From my experience the stiffer fabric can take more inseam. It creases harder and the creases stay, making it to loose length. My 19 lefties are hemmed 0.5 inches longer that my 21oz. Really exited about the SBG.
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Agreed, my 555 SBG’s are super soft
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Thanks guys. I appreciate everybody's feedback!
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UPS package just arrived. Yet to unpack this, super excited!
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Yet to try them out!
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Best patch in the bussiness!!!
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I just had the chance to try this on. The fit is spot on and I would like to thank @Graham for taking my measurement request in consideration and shipping me the pair that suits me better.
One question that intrigues me is that the SBG has a length of 36 instead of the 34 like the 634 S 21 oz. Is there a reason as to why is this? With the extra length on the SBG, I can cuff them comfortably, which is not possible with my current 634 pair.
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I dig em. Crispier than signature 21 oz at the beginning…
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I tried to get these as tight as possible while still being able to button (W35). And whew was it close - just barely got them done up with some extra effort. Goal is to get that long-run perfect fit, belt-optional status. I have W36 signature 21 oz in 633 cut, and while they were pretty darn comfy right out of the gate, they are a touch baggy in top block after couple years of wears and washes. Hopefully these will be just right. I will say that when I first put them on, I almost felt like I was wearing skinny jeans. I think getting the waist to be tight made the thigh/knees narrower than I really wanted.
Update - very uncomfortable Day 1. Little better Day 2, seem to be opening up (and softening to the touch) fairly quickly as you'd expect with this loosely woven denim. Hips and crotch/rise seem to need to stretch the most. Despite the initial waist snugness, I already feel like they ride better with a belt. A bit disappointing given my "beltless fit" goal. But maybe it's just inevitable that heavy jeans will demand a belt. Could also be a cut thing - i.e., in 634, for me to get a perfect fit waist-wise requires so much tightness in the thighs/knee that it just doesn't work. In any event, I'm still optimistic these will be a better long run fit than my W36 21 oz. If not, I'll put a request on the "What products do you think we should make?" thread for a 634W ("634 wide")
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I have hesitated many times on going double denim resulting in a uniform like look, but with this black denim bottom, I can pair it very easily with my blue denim shirt. For example, today I wore this with my Tellason topper denim shirt and the combo worked out very well.
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@68degreesorless my sz 35s are arriving today — I aimed for the same sort of thing, tight at first but ideal after max stretch. My UHRs are 33 and I don't need to wear a belt with them, but they're sort of a TAD too tight in the top block etc... who knows, it's really tough getting the Goldilocks thing down.
I'll continue to bug the guys about my desire for a cut with an 888-style top and 634 leg opening (which from what I've seen appears to pretty much be what the Beatle Buster was), but I realize it might be pointless. Gotta keep trying though haha...
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@popvulture I hear you. I just don’t want high rise. I can’t pull them up that high without feeling uncomfortable. I like em to sit below the belly. 634 with a little more thigh and knee room would be the dream for me personally. But 634 is still best stock cut I’ve found without going custom so I’ll shut up and wear em for now.
Hope your new pair works out great. Be cool to see where everyone’s at on these in the coming months and years.
I’m gonna rotate mine so not expecting any earth shattering fades quickly. But also planning to limit washing and wash carefully when I do need to (given marbling potential) so that may help.
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@the246guy wore mine today with faded ihsh 33 OD and liked my look! If you contrast the colors, it barely even registers as double denim!
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@68degreesorless ha, I needed to hear this. Makes me realize everybody’s got their different wishes for the ideal pair. Maybe I’ll stop needling Giles and Alex now. Maybe.