Ultra Heavy Raw (UHR), AKA 21/23oz Denim
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I agree with the above statement
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Giles & Alex have very kindly found me a sample pair of 888 in the re-launched UHR denim Here are my initial thoughts on these before I put some wear into them:
These are tagged 35 waist and have been expertly hemmed to 31 inches in length.
My pre-soak raw measurements are:
Waist: 34.75
Leg: 31
FR: 12.5
RR: 17
Thigh: 13.75
Knee: 9.5
Hem 9
Weight: 1.25Kg
Denim is slightly lighter in shade than the XHS in the pics (also raw unworn)
Out if interest the XHS 888 in the pictures are 40” waist 31 leg and also weigh 1.25kg.
The detailing on these sample jeans is amazing! I’m loving the bronze buttons as seen on the original 2010 21/23 oz 634SR jeans. Selvedge fly details -check, fully lined rear pockets – check, hidden selvedge on coin pocket – check, perfect stitching - check.
I’d like to put a request in here for 100% cotton stitching on the back pocket arcs, as per the original 634SR’s?
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Soaked for two hours in super hot water straight from the hot tap at around 70 degrees. Then drip dried for two days.
Post-soak measurements are:
Waist: 34.5
Leg: 30.25
FR: 12.25
RR: 16.75
Thigh: 13.7
Knee: 9.5
Hem: 9
Weight 1.25kg
This new version of the UHR doesn’t appear to shrink anywhere near as much as the original, which is probably a good thing all in all, I remember getting nearly 2” of leg shrinkage and nearly an inch in the waist, on the old stuff which made guessing post soak sizing real hard. I also note that there is no noticeable leg skew, where as the old stuff twisted like a crazy, as you can see in the photos. I guess this is a preference thing, personally I like the raw nature of leg skew. I’m geeky enough to have weighed the old 634SR in 34 waist 30” leg at 1.25kg, I’m delighted to see the denim weight is the same between both generations.
If these fade like the original UHR denim the evo on these things is going to be something else as you can see from the two old pairs of mine here. I’ll post some updates on these as the evolve, this denim is the absolute muts nutz, epic to see it coming back in to production.
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So psyched to hear about the arcs. I think I might make these my first pair of 634s.
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@Simon great reporting and pics. very helpful for those of us following along.
Im surprised how little shrink you got on that soak too. Makes me wonder what will happen with future washes.
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Super cool that these are coming back. I figured I'd get the most classic 555s next (indigo 21 oz), but I guess those will wait and I'll get UHR 555. With how long IH jeans last and other denims like 18 oz and XHSib catching my eye, I still haven't gotten around to getting that classic 21 oz in anything but black!
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My first pair of IH were 21oz 555s. Def not a bad choice
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Super cool that these are coming back. I figured I'd get the most classic 555s next (indigo 21 oz), but I guess those will wait and I'll get UHR 555. With how long IH jeans last and other denims like 18 oz and XHSib catching my eye, I still haven't gotten around to getting that classic 21 oz in anything but black!
Definitely worth waiting for the UHR IMO. The 21oz is classic for a reason but the UHR's character and texture is unmatched, and I've found it to outlast the 21oz for durability as well. My first pair of indigo IH was the 634-UHR and they're still going strong 5+ years later with excellent fading/contrast and minimal wear/fraying.
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Super cool that these are coming back. I figured I'd get the most classic 555s next (indigo 21 oz), but I guess those will wait and I'll get UHR 555. With how long IH jeans last and other denims like 18 oz and XHSib catching my eye, I still haven't gotten around to getting that classic 21 oz in anything but black!
Definitely worth waiting for the UHR IMO. The 21oz is classic for a reason but the UHR's character and texture is unmatched, and I've found it to outlast the 21oz for durability as well. My first pair of indigo IH was the 634-UHR and they're still going strong 5+ years later with excellent fading/contrast and minimal wear/fraying.
I feel like both pair are worth owning. One would be more hardcore, and the other would be as soft and comfy as it gets. After spending many years in stuff that's heavy (oppressive) I am enjoying wearing the flagship 21oz (comfy) denim every day. I even sleep in them most days.
For a long time I have often pondered to myself what the softest denim out there is, and after trying out many other popular brands I am convinced that the IH 21oz denim is as soft as it gets (in terms of hand softness). It's just the right amount of heft and is crazy soft when it is broken in.
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Be willing to bet on a HARD NO on that one. Buuuuuttttt[emoji2369]
I do like the way you think tho! My B01s still make so much popping sounds when i walk cant imagine the decibels of UHR in a bib. [emoji23]
