Samurai Jeans
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The only link I found talking about both twist and twill is here: http://blog.londasfiles.com/denim-facts/
It says z-twist with s-twill and s-twist with z-twill.Interesting. I've never seen twill direction labeled S or Z before, just left or right. Seems like that adds an unnecessary layer of confusion, but then textiles/sewing/garment making seems almost perversely complicated and contradictory, so I guess that isn't surprising.
As for what type of yarn gets used for denim weaving most commonly thought the industry, well, that's beyond my meagre knowledge. I suspect that it depends on manufacturer preferences, and that is basically a black hole of information.
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I bought a pair of 25oz samurais in august nice jeans and all…lnext time im going to spend the extra $ and go with IH. There is already threads breaking in a few spots and the leg twist annoyed the shit out of me for the first few months, other than that they are pretty decent.
Leg twist is what happens when you wash raw denim, regardless of the brand.
I have had at least 8 pairs of raws…3 were unsanforized... havent experienced the twist until this pair of samurais. I also heard that this wasn't an issue with IH denim. Guess i was misinformed.
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@BD81 I wouldn’t say you where misinformed. To be clear, most IH denim is sanforised and sanforised denim has a much lower tendency to leg twist. So that is probably the basis of what you heard. This is certainly true of the 21oz and 25oz.
The one truly raw (loomstate) denim that IH do, the UHR definitely displays some leg twist. Pretty much all raw denim will twist to a degree, because it lacks the stabilisation sanforising gives a fabric.
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Cool. Thanks. I will keep that in mind for the next pair. It actually doesn't bother me like it did at first. I think it looks kind of cool now. I would like to avoid it in the future though.
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If both edges twisted either towards the front or back it might be another story. I know that isn't possible but whatever… just saying.
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The fabric on the SExIH 21oz LHT Grey Weft (SelfEdge/Iron Heart collab) is also loomstate IIRC ("raw") and left hand twill and I got a very noticeable amount of leg twist on them after the first soak.
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Yeah, that one was pretty intense.
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Cool. Thanks. I will keep that in mind for the next pair. It actually doesn't bother me like it did at first. I think it looks kind of cool now. I would like to avoid it in the future though.
Pretty serendipitious but Haraki-san just posted this on his IG. It shows the 19oz LHT (washed, unsanforised), the 21oz (fully sanforised), the UHR (loomstate) and the XHS 25oz (lightly sanforised, no wash).
All pairs have been heavily worn and washed (I believe by H himself). You clearly can see which jeans display leg twist and how much.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BshLIsVHWtu/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=ecz1azktegyi
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Fit pics from august before initial soak. Pardon the bad quality.
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For some reason that is the only pic i am able to upload?
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Mine is about the same but opposite leg
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Sorry for all the posts, I have been trying to upload my original fit fics pre soak…apparantly there is a problem with my upload. Here are a few from today at 5 months, 1 hot soak, 0 washes.
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I think the 666 will be too snug in the thigh. I have actually had my eye on the 888 for a while now. I love the fit of these 510s except i find the leg opening a touch wide.
