Ask Giles Anything

[Giles]

I'm just listening to Silent Alarm Live (in Brussels) - loving it…

[SKT]

I’ve noticed that jean’s measurements can vary significantly run to run. Is this by design so as to cover the most customers or is it just by chance?  Apologies if it’s been discussed before.

[Giles]

Not intentional.  A roll of denim can have different characteristics from one end of the roll to the other, even changes in the humidity within the mill can change the nature of the weave hour by hour. When we cut the parts needed for a pair of jeans, we have to do it in the same part of the roll, if we do it from different parts or different rolls they will look like toned down harlequin pants.  The old Toyoda looms are temperamental at best, so that creates variance too. Even sewing a pair up can change from operator to operator and sewing machine to sewing machine…...

[SKT]

Thank you Giles. I find the whole process fascinating. Part of the fun for me, now that I’m getting the hang of sizing, is the hunt for the “right” one. I think the variation adds to that experience season by season.

[neph93]

@SKT:

I think the variation adds to that experience season by season.

After eight or so years of buying IH jeans you get pretty good at it. Even then the odd curveball comes in. A fabric you don’t know the stretch of, or when trying a new cut.

[Giles]

We had a guy who worked for us once, he simply could not get his head around the sizing variance.  My argument was even Pirelli F1 tyres have sizing variance….

We actually see it as a virtue, it allows us to more often find someone's ideal size.......

[SKT]

@Giles:

We actually see it as a virtue, it allows us to more often find someone's ideal size…....

Exactly why I thought it might be by design. It does seem to work out for everyone…if the measurements don’t work this go round, fingers crossed for next run.

[Nik]

There are great photo tours of the Japanese factories on the forum that have made me curious about the people who work them. What are the conditions for the labourers who make the garments? Are they unionised? Also wondering if there has ever been any though to do some production in UK?

[Giles]

I honestly do not know if they are unionised.  The conditions are brilliant, they get well paid, work sensible hours etc etc.  No thoughts of manufacturing in UK….

[Nik]

Great thanks. It’s is clear from the level of quality that there is a lot of skill in the making.

[vaquero357]

…@Giles What does 'WB' stand for on the FW21 Release Schedule? Enquiring minds need to know!

[Giles]

Week Beginning

[vaquero357]

…explains your last big shipment. Thanks!

[Giles]

But I need to update the Schedule, the shipment took ages to arrive, and s=we still do not have all the cartons…..

[endo]

M51 arrived ..?

[Alex]

If it had, we would have posted about it 

[scooter]

Hey, G, when will the SS/2022 collection be revealed ?

[Alex]

@scooter:

Hey, G, when will the SS/2022 collection be revealed ?

Hey Scott. We are literally working on the graphics to announce the IG live shows as we speak. I think we will announce dates publically on Friday this week, but it's looking like 20/21 December for IG live then a full reveal on the forum the evening we finish the last IG live

[Matt]

@Alex:

If it had, we would have posted about it 

This was such a Giles thing to say.  I feel like the transition is almost complete.

[Alex]

Yeah.. Sorry @endo , must have been before my coffee..