There's no Such Thing as a Stupid Question
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Thanks Paul, I think you’re right - hope we get an olive version one day!
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I noticed that some of my selvedge jeans have an “overlocked” seam on the inside leg and some have a “double-felled”(?) seam. The double-felled seam is arguably more attractive when turned up, but are there other reasons for using the overlocked seam instead?
thanks - Bill
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I noticed that some of my selvedge jeans have an “overlocked” seam on the inside leg and some have a “double-felled”(?) seam. The double-felled seam is arguably more attractive when turned up, but are there other reasons for using the overlocked seam instead?
thanks - Bill
thanks - Bill
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@Bill C The gospel according to Haraki:
There are 3 types of sewing for inner seam:
- interlock (overlock and chain stitch at one time)
- interlock, fold one side then lock stitch over the interlock (which IH does)
- felled seam
Actually, a felled seam is one of the easiest ways if the operator gets used to it. But the crotch area will be also felled and it becomes very thick. It requires techniques and power. Also, the curve of the inner line for the front panel and the back panel has to be identical. If not, it’s hard to fell evenly and steady. If the trousers are not a work pants silhouette, it’s difficult.
Brands like Lee are good at work pants, a brand like Wrangler, their denim is broken twill so is soft, they tend to use felled seam for the inner seam. I guess it’s also related to what type of sewing machines they have.
At IH, we have lots of models (silhouettes) and heavy denim, lockstitch over interlock is suitable.
This is what I guess.
The truth might be, that Lee and Wrangler probably didn’t want to imitate Levi’s which started ahead.
HARAKI
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Does anyone use a little bit of bleach when washing denim? Like after desired fade marks are present, to whiten up the white areas? I have read about this somewhere online but can't seem to remember where.
I have one IHSH that is faded nice and vintagey but the white area look a little dull and could use some brightening up, but only if it would not ruin the integrity of the fabric.
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I put a small amount of bleach into the washing machine to lighten a pair of 21oz OD, and they are light blue now and the fabric is still soft and solid
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Very interesting
How much is a little bit or a small amount? -
50ml at first, then did it again with 100ml, and was happy so stopped there.