IH-634-XHS - 25oz Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jeans - Indigo
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Fella's. I don't post here often, I'm on SuFu regularly.
Somehow, I've become a huge IH fan. Wasn't planning on it specifically, but their stuff suits my style and what I'm looking for in jeans and clothes.
I'm planning on entering the DWC Tux division. I decided on the IHSH-33 Black denim shirt. I've been on the fence for a long time about jeans. Tried several other brands and cuts. I thought the 666-XHS would be it, but the thighs and hips are so tight on me, I'm not sure I could put up with them for 2 yrs. I loved the look, but the fit was very restrictive. I have an athletic build with large(ish) thighs and a small waist.
I have the 634-S SExIH-13 23oz and love them, love the 634 cut for me. So I got a pair of 634-XHS size 33, and I have to say although I love the cut and the denim, I'm a bit disappointed in that they are not finished and detailed as nicely as the 666-XHS. I assumed they would be done the same, but I didn't pay close attention to pics/photos on-line.
No selvedge edge at the fly, no lined rear pockets, belt loops not sewn into waist band. The rear pockets seem a bit narrow too. Overall it I think the 666-XHS are done to a slightly higher level. I dont' ahve the 666-XHS to compare side by side, but it also seems some of the stitching used was heavier/nicer.
I was really thinking/hoping these 634-XHS were doe in the same manner, and I'm a bit let down. Don't get me wrong, they are still beautiful jeans, but those few extra touches make the 666-XHS really speacial, IMHO. Just an observation, really.
If you like the cut and the fabric, I would say don't sweat the small details, just wear them and enjoy them. I think sometimes people freak out trying to find the "perfect jeans" (myself included) and don't enjoy wearing the jeans that they have. At this point as long as the fit and the denim is good, I'm happy.
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@Giles - thanks for the reply. I'm not familiar with every cut and the details associated with each. The 666-XHS is the only version of that model I have laid hands on. I was thinking that the extra nice details were associated with the fabric, not the cut.
@superfuzz - yeah, I'll probably just wear them and get over it. The disappointment is all mine in that I had some expectations/assumptions that turned out differently.
Here's a car analogy that I can relate it to - a BMW (any model). Any BMW car is a nice car, even a stripped down model with no extras. Once you start adding a couple of options (and I'm not talking about getting a higher performance model with a bigger engine), it makes a huge difference to the driving experience. An extra thick steering wheel, short throw shifter and performance seats - oh, those performance seats! - although they are just cosmetic, it makes the car feel so much more special, more awesome.
Somewhat the same with jeans. Those little extra details are only noticed by the wearer, but they make a difference to me. Every time I put on a pair of jeans with a selvedge line rather than a lock stitch at a cut edge that's starting to come undone at the fly bring a little smile to my face.
IH in general brings a smile to my face, so it's all good!
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@mpukas Honestly, I've never really understood automobile fetishization, so that analogy is lost on me.
The jeans that I've loved the most are the ones that I've worn a ton and worn hard, and over time those little details that maybe attracted me to them at first became less and less important. (Just my two cents.)
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I can absolutely relate, these small details take the (already astonishing) IH-experience to the next level. I love the selvage-fly-detail, it just makes one feel joy and pride while buttoning them knowing your legs and arse are in good hands (pants). Why not release an updated edition of the 634S to celebrate its 12th birthday and include the details from then on so no model will lack them? The BMW-analogy was on point BTW.
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Here's the situation.
Haraki actually used not to really give a toss about selvedge. It was the fabric that he was more interested in. He probably still sells more IH-634 (non selvedge) than IH-634S in Japan. When I started working with him I explained that it was quite important in the west and he started to appreciate that having selvedge details made a difference. All of the cuts that I have initiated: 666, 555, 777, Buster, 1955S, DC4s and a host of other collabs have had selvedge detailing and some have lined pockets (if I remembered to spec them at the time).
H and I have talked about updating the 634S, trouble is when do we do it? What do we do with all the suddenly less desirable versions? And you know what? There's a shit load of options in the jeans department in our portfolio and we always have something more important to do…....
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H and I have talked about updating the 634S, trouble is when do we do it? What do we do with all the suddenly less desirable versions? And you know what? There's a shit load of options in the jeans department in our portfolio and we always have something more important to do…....
No need to update. It's your signature cut for a reason, and I'd rather see what interesting fabrics you come up with for my next shirt than spending time adding selvedge details to a product that's already perfect. I'm planning on buying another 634S in the next year, and I don't give a shit how many more selvedge details there are on it. I like that there's some selvedge detail, but more of it won't make the jeans fit any better, and it won't improve the feel of the fabric as it ages, which to me is the most important thing. Nothing better than a perfectly broken-in pair of jeans.
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^ I'm with the Wolf on this one, the classic should stay the classic imo. You guys do enough different editions of your cuts to suit every taste, and after a few months of wear your love for you jeans has bugger all to do with a selvedge fly or lined rear pockets.
The anniversary of you and H hooking up is definitely worthy of celebration, I suggest that you both pick an item of clothing, co design it, and release it as the IH-*** International Anniversary Edition. Limit numbers, do a pre order, make it awesome.
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@den213 I can't speak for @Giles but I can give you my opinion. That stuff really doesn't matter. Sewn in belt loops are neat, but will never be something that I seek out specifically. In fact, I have a pair of Iron Hearts with sewn in belt loops that annoy me a little when I'm putting my belt on because the belt gets caught at every loop. Lined pockets are a nice touch, but not necessary. Please see my previous post about selvedge. And at the end of the day…. it's the CLASSIC cut. What do you want more selvedge for? To show it off to your friends? Additionally, I don't want all of my IH products to be the same. It's nice that they're all a little different. It shows the craftsmanship and the human element in the design process. Part of what makes Iron Heart a unique company is that input is welcome and accepted, and I know that what I'm buying has been designed to be the best. Selvedge lines, lined pockets, and sewn in belt loops do nothing for the quality of jeans and are clever details but that's where it ends. Function over form dude.
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Also, there are so many other IH models that do have all these added bells and whistles that if they really are important to people it isn't like they don't have a pair of jeans you could buy.
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My thoughts are, since the 634 is that important and well selling, it may include these features, too, so many more people can see / enjoy them. They don't hurt but add even more quality to these already astonishing jeans and its unique denim. I didn't know it lacked those details because they are for me - personally - a trademark of IH that distinguish them from other brands additionally. At the end of the day G and H decide whether they want to update.
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I don't love lined pockets- I live in a hot, humid climate and the extra layer of fabric makes my ass sweat more.
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@den213:
They don't hurt but add even more quality.
How do these details add more quality? Are you saying that the current design is inferior?
I don't love lined pockets- I live in a hot, humid climate and the extra layer of fabric makes my ass sweat more.
Agreed. I like the option to not have them on my classic 634S.
