Random questions to which you seek an answer

[long_john86]

@Tago-Mago Leg end! Thanks for that

[68degreesorless]

Can a legacy UHF workshirt be sent to Gosport to have its buttons updated to the new 15mm ones? If so, what would cost be?

[Jett129]

@68degreesorless It might just be easier and more cost effective if you can buy some 15mm buttons and either sew them on yourself or have a tailor do it for you. There’s a button district in the garment center in NYC and at least one of the stores has a fairly comprehensive website. Don’t know if you’re in the US or not. Maybe this helps.

[Alex]

We don't hold stock of the new work shirt buttons at the moment, I am afraid

[oldsoulguy56]

Sleeve alteration on N1 Jacket?

Has anyone had the sleeve length of their N1 jacket altered (in the UK). In an ideal world I’d like the sleeve to be slightly shorter. However I would only consider having this done if I knew they had the skills/experience to undertake this type of work, as it’s a complex sleeve. I may just chose to leave as is, but I thought I’d throw the question out there.

[Mister_Brue]

@oldsoulguy56 The most sensible approach would be to alter at the top of the sleeve/shoulder because of the complexity of the sleeve opening.
Even then you would want to ideally use the same stitch holes on the body of the jacket, probably using a cylinder arm sewing machine. Ease of colour matching the stitching is dependent on which colour jacket you have.

It is doable with, as you say, the right skills, experience, and attention to detail.

[oldsoulguy56]

@Mister_Brue that makes perfect sense. As said previously, the bottom of the sleeve is very complex. Thanks for the feedback

[popvulture]

I recently started a pair of 634XHS, and I noticed that the fly no longer has selvedge detail on the inside. After looking elsewhere, I also saw that the rear pockets are no longer lined. Both of these details were also missing on a pair of 21OD I bought earlier this year (a pair of SBG still had them).

Given IH’s tendency to put so much stake in the overbuilt theme, I was really surprised to see these features removed. I don’t remember seeing this discussed anywhere, but I might have just missed jt. Anyway, I’m mainly just wondering — what’s the story here? My biggest hope would be that this isn’t a permanent change.

[Alex]

@popvulture the product would have been correct at the time of your purchase, though, I hope? Sometimes, run to run, things change that are not requested by us, so we (try to) update the product pages every time we get a restock to ensure their continued veracity. We wouldn't necessarily flag it anywhere else.

It certainly was not a requested update from past models, its more likely to be a factory fuck up, but it's not the sort of thing that would make us reject a batch of hundred of jeans and ask for them to be remade for, I am afraid.

[popvulture]

@Alex thank you!

I didn't check the specs at the times of purchase, but I did go back when I noticed and saw that they were updated. I also saw that the specs are updated on the IH Japan site, with a pic of the different flatlock fly detail on the XHS.

I know there have been all kinds of production woes as you've mentioned recently, so I figured this could relate to those. I appreciate the insight.

[Alex]

@popvulture said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

I didn't check the specs at the times of purchase, but I did go back when I noticed and saw that they were updated. I also saw that the specs are updated on the IH Japan site, with a pic of the different flatlock fly detail on the XHS.

Yeah - we are not perfect, clearly, but we have a meeting the day after every delivery and literally cross check every detail in the bullet points of every restocking product to assess what needs to be rewritten or rephotographed to try and ensure things are accurate at the time of purchase.

[popvulture]

@Alex I hear ya, man — I always appreciate the huge attention to detail IH UK puts in, and I saw this issue as being more on the Japan end of things. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this isn't a long term change they decided to make, as they're details I'd hate to see disappear.

[Mizmazzle]

@popvulture totally agree with this!

[Alex]

@popvulture said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

@Alex I hear ya, man — I always appreciate the huge attention to detail IH UK puts in, and I saw this issue as being more on the Japan end of things. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this isn't a long term change they decided to make, as they're details I'd hate to see disappear.

I understand what you're saying, when I say that it was an issue with the factory, I mean with the third party factory, not WORKS INC. It likely would have come as a surprise to Haraki too. If it was a planned long term change by WORKS, we would have been informed.

[popvulture]

@Alex ahhh ok I see! Thank you for clarifying that

[pechelman]

@popvulture said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

also saw that the rear pockets are no longer lined.

thought i recalled someone asking something like this a while ago and the answer was something like that the original / early runs of this forgot to include the lined pocket detail and the spec to the factory never got updated on repeat runs. So maybe it's not that it was missing but maybe it was never there to start? Similar to how some (or all?) of the UHR's include copper buttons because Gile's was on a copper kick at the time and then it never got updated, so that's how the factory builds them.

[Mister_Brue]

@pechelman said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

Giles was on a copper kick at the time.

Brilliant!

[Alex]

@pechelman said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

@popvulture said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

also saw that the rear pockets are no longer lined.

thought i recalled someone asking something like this a while ago and the answer was something like that the original / early runs of this forgot to include the lined pocket detail and the spec to the factory never got updated on repeat runs. So maybe it's not that it was missing but maybe it was never there to start? Similar to how some (or all?) of the UHR's include copper buttons because Gile's was on a copper kick at the time and then it never got updated, so that's how the factory builds them.

Quite possibly, my memory only goes back to when I started working at IH, but the general point remains that time to time, the factory fucks up and things change. Chainstitch run off on work shirts being present then missing run to run, would be an obvious example

[popvulture]

@pechelman yesterday when I was fishing around, I did see something from way back that indicated the earliest 634XHS having unlined pockets, but as far as I know they eventually became a regular feature.

[pechelman]

@popvulture ah, yea, found what i had remembered as well

https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum//post/806525
and
https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum//post/599677