IH-634S - 21oz Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jeans - Indigo
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Thanks @Chap and @neph93 - really appreciate the help on this one!
I'd say the 32 is definitely more comfortable in the waist - could wear them almost immediately and be totally fine. The 31 are much more of a struggle to fully button, and feel more restrictive - I got them to button but with a fair amount of struggle and really hug my hips quite tightly - pocket use would definitely need them to loosen up!
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I think the 31" pair look uncomfortably tight in the third set of photos. I'm not sure they'll stretch enough to be comfortable. I've made the mistake before (too many times!) of settling for the tighter pair, only for them to never stretch enough to be comfortable.
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Worst case, I could throw them in for a hot wash/dry…
Won’t help. The 21oz is unshrinkable. If you think the w32 will still work with one inch stretch in the waist and baggier top block then stick with them. Otherwise do the w31.
Unlike @going_to_battle I have never regretted stretching out smaller pants, but have regularly regretted ending up with jeans that are too baggy because of stretch.
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The W32 looks better on you. I like the silhouette of it a lot more than the W31. As someone who wears and loves the 634S fits, I personally think that it shouldn't fit (too) slim but rather loose and relaxed. There are better (and more) options if you wanted a slimmer pair of jeans. Everyone has their own preference on that though…
I also agree with what @going_to_battle says - I also have settled for tighter pairs and have regretted it down the road as, yes, the waist stretched to the point where I was okay with it but the rest didn't feel as comfortable in proportion.
I've listened too many times to people telling me to size down and go with the slimmer fitting jeans, that they'd stretch to the point where I'd feel good. Never was the case. With my current 634S I chose to go true-to-size/ a size up from what people would've told me to go with and I'm absolutely satisfied after almost a year in them.
TL;DR: If you want a slimmer look go with the W31, if you want a loose and relaxed fit go with the W32. Choose whatever you feel the most comfortable in.
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They both look great but for different reasons. The 31 is a bit slimmer and a more modern fit and the 32 is more old school straight leg. I realize I’m absolutely no help [emoji23]
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Hello,
I just registered today. I have been enjoying iron heart pants. Model I'm wearing at the moment is 9666Z. Size is tag w30. To be honest I feel 666 jeans slightly restricting especially my thighs and hip area. When I sit or spread my legs a bit it feels pretty tight but not unusable. I have been wearing it now for around half a year and I don't expect it to stretch more.
However I was curious to try the 634S which I ordered a couple of days ago. Does it stretch around the same amount as 9666Z? The Size is exactly the same. I know 634S is wider from the thighs and below the knee. I wonder if there is a big difference in hip area? I guess trying out is the only way to know. I'm 176cm and 64kg. I hope 634S doesn't look too baggy. If it does, I think the only way to get it fixed is getting it tapered. I added fit photos of 9666Z.
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Thanks for your input! In my size there is around one centimeter difference in hem between 888 and 634S.
I will add some fit photos after 634S arrives. When I compare 9666z and 634S there is also considerable difference in waist 9666z 31,7 inch vs 634S 30 inches. It will be tight but I'm relieved to hear 21 oz selvedge indigo stretch more easily than Z denim. -
Thanks for your input! In my size there is around one centimeter difference in hem between 888 and 634S.
That may be, but they still taper from the thigh down, which the 634 do not. So they will be slimmer through the middle of the leg. The 777 is another option, although the top block and thigh will be similar to the 666.
I look forward to seeing your 634 fit. It is a classic.
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Hello!
First I have to say Chap has a really good fit with those 634S. Just correct. My 634S looks a bit more roomy.
I now have experience of wearing those 634S around a couple of weeks. Seems to be more comfortable than 9666Z. If I could choose now, I think I would like to size up for 9666Z.I received my 634S from the tailor because I really needed to get jeans hemmed. She did it with a chain stitch. After that I noticed she left there a bit of extra length for some reason. I also did one hour of cold soak in vinegar water. I heard this will fix the indigo dye. Even I did vinegar soak there is still some indigo loss when I wipe the jeans with strip of paper. It looks like vinegar will slow down the fading process, but doesn't stop it.
After a cold soak, I also did hot soak for two hours in 40C water. (just wanted to reduce a bit of inseam length since the tailor left a bit extra there)
I didn't get shrinkage almost at all. Inseam was shortened by hot soak just around 0,5 inches / 1- 1.5cm.Both soaks gave me a lot of yellow water. There was no indigo loss at all even after hot soak. Just yellow. I know it is not necessary to do soaking for sanforized denim. I did it just because of inseam length and I wanted to increase durability. Not sure though will it increase or not. At least I don't notice anything negative after soaking.
Happy new year to everyone!
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Great documentation…
Soaking sanforised/one-washed denim will do no harm (but it won't do anything else either). Whatever shrinkage was in the denim before we one-washed it, is taken out by that process. You'll likely to get a perceived decrease in inseam length once the combs form behind the knee's, but the 21oz drapes so well, this will be minimal.
Soaking a raw denim increases durability because the constructional threads get tighter and bed into the denim. But again, because we have one-washed, we have already done that with this denim.
In rope dyed denim, indigo oxidises onto the surface of the warp, fading is the process of this oxidised layer of indigo being abraded off and exposes the white core of the yarn. Adding vinegar will not do any harm, but I don't think it actually does anything.
The yellow you saw after the soaks, was sizing agent, probably starch.
https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=11987.msg575128#msg575128
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@Drumedge, thanks for the advice and feedback! I feel more comfortable with both jeans now. You're right. If I size up 9666Z it can be be too loose from the waist especially..
I'm so curious to try other cuts too. Unfortunately I can use only one at once. I feel these are really durable. I bet I can use 634S and 9666Z for years..
It is difficult to justify myself why I have to buy an another one with different cut.
