IH-888-XHSib - 25oz Selvedge Denim Medium/High Rise Tapered Cut Jeans - Ind/blk
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This denim is going to fade incredibly. I am amazed by how awesome these jeans are.
It will be fun to see all the different fade pictures from these jeans.
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I feel like I should know the answer to this but these shouldn't shrink at all in the length after the first soak, right? It's not like – and this is where I feel dumb -- the stacks that build behind the knees are going to shorten the inseam, right? The stacks build because of excess inseam, right?
I've only recently started hemming my denim to a length that's just perfect. Before, I would hem them too long to account for any shrinkage with wear or wash, so losing half an inch wasn't a big deal. So before I go and hem these to that perfect length, I just want to know if I should expect any more shortening of the inseam.
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@Paul9221 the creasing at the knees is going to shorten the inseam slightly but stacking is what happens when you have more inseam than you need. The more excess inseam, the more stacks.
The amount of inseam you "lose" with honeycombs forming behind the knees is negligible in reality. I've seen .5" suggested but I'd say that was a liberal estimate based on my experience.
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Looks like I did need another pair of 25oz[emoji23] copped this AM. My first pair in the 888s ever. In 25oz Had B01,666,777,634,pih5dct.
This denim seems so special I couldn't not get them…or at least thats what im telling my self. Also all the great pics didn't hurt.
Now the wait begins[emoji41]
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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Hemming… If you had these denims hemmed outside of the IHUK shop, what did you do? Chain stitched or not? Thread color to match the rest or other? Cuffed or straight?
I had mine hemmed to 32.5” at IHUK. I generally have sanforised denim hemmed to 31.5”.
Judging by reports, these seem to be losing .5” so I’ll see how they stack. If I don’t like it I’ll try a cuff and if neither are to my liking I’ll get them re-hemmed, probably at IHUK.
Stitch type and colour is personal preference but if you want that badass, fat, sexy, roping you need them chain stitched on a specific type of Union Special.
Most non specialist tailors/seamstresses I’ve encountered balk at working on 25oz denim anyway.
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They just arrived. Loving them. I’d like to post fit pictures but I don’t want everyone to see me with the fly down! Really missing the Talon zipper on my 801’s. I’ll keep working on it.
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Managed to do the bottom two buttons. I’ll squeeze them on and deal with the rest. Safe to say these are the stiffest pair of jeans I’ve owned.
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@kkibbey23 you surely won't be disappointed. I am not exaggerating when I say they are amazing. These are quite unbelievable really.
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I finally stole a few moments to try these on and take a few fit pics. My flathead screw driver technique was essential to getting them buttoned. Fit pics are unwashed, both full 36" inseam w/ stacks and IG worthy cuffs for comparison. The waist feels bigger than it measures compared to other pairs, regardless of rise. There are some discrepancies between my measurements and IHUK, but that certainly comes down to variances in each pair and inaccuracies in my techniques. The biggest difference I see is in the waist. The jeans really are a thing of beauty to behold in their rawest, straight from the factory, unworn state.
My raw measurements for size 33:
Waist laid flat, front and back not aligned: 16.0" / 32.0"
Waist aligned side-to-side, IH method: 16.25" / 32.5"
Front rise: 12.0"
Back rise: 16.25"
Thigh at crotch: 12.25"
Thigh 2" down: 12.125"
Knee 14" down: 8.75"
Hem: 8.0"
Inseam: 36.0"Apologies for the awkward lighting which makes the finer details hard to see, and slightly distorted mirror angle…
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As glorious as these are in terms of denim and construction, I do have comments and considerations. Afterall, we aren't discussing off-the-shelf Levi's STF. These jeans are at the upper echelon of what can be had anywhere, at any price, and I feel some reasonable criticism is warranted. Keep in mind, in my fit pics above, the jeans are brand spanking new, raw, unwashed and super stiff. They are practically standing up on their own. Therefore the fit looks slightly deceiving.
For a high-rise cut, I think the waist should be 1" smaller than tagged size. That would help keep them higher on the waist instead of dropping to the hips. Compared to the 634 cut with a lower rise, this run has a waist slightly bigger per tagged size.
Personally, I'm not sure the 888 cut is the best IH cut for me. It would suit me better if the waist were 1" smaller. Regardless of how high the rise is, my jeans always end up at my hip bones. Or lower if they're a low rise cut. I really think SE's 633 would be the best IH cut for me.
I'm not sure why, but the hips feel very wide compared to the waist and thigh, when compared to my 634's. Same with my 888-NT's, which I have some saddle bagging, partially due to them being a size gig and sitting low on my hips.
I find the waist band on all of my IH jeans to be too narrow, or short in height, at 1.5". I think it should be closer to 1.75". It looks puny and not substantial enough for the overall hefty aesthetic of IH. It would also give a little more material to grab on to when button the top button.
The bottom button on this run is too close to the bottom of the fly and makes it more difficult than usual to button. My pair measures 7/8" from fly seam to button hole center. My 888-NT's measure 1.25". That 3/8" difference is significant in regards to getting that first button done.
I've considered a size down to a 32, but then the thighs might be a little too tight. The 555 are too small in the thigh and not an option for me. I'm hoping I get enough shrinkage, similar to my 634-XHS, to snug them up overall.
