IH-8301S - SBG "Super Black Fade-To-Gray" Denim - Slim Cut
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My pair hasn’t been worn in what feels like years until recently. I can fit them again
but now they’re a go to
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When considering inseam length for hemming how much inseam shrinkage should we generally allow for? (may vary by fabric)
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Is hemming unworn/unwashed preferred, or is it better to wear/wash prior to hemming?
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Does vertical shrinkage also affect the rise of jeans, or is it more noticeable on the inseam?
I was wondering how much shrinkage to allow for in the inseam in some SBG 8301's that I'll send in to IHUK for hemming soon. And maybe hemming is a common enough question to warrant a FAQ. SelfEdges website says to expect .5in shrink in the inseam, I assume this is the same sanforized SBG fabric in other IHUK jeans, and IHUK details suggest minimal shrinkage. I'm sure people here have experience with this to comment how much shrink to expect and any other considerations.
My preference would be to send them in unworn / unwashed, since they're stupid long for me to wear without hemming first.
Here are the jeans in question on SE site:
https://www.selfedge.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=969
It seems like .5 inch shrink would be too small to noticeably affect the length, especially if wearing boots. So I'm probably overthinking it. But as they say, measure twice cut once.
Aside from any shrinkage considerations finding the right inseam length seems fairly common sense. Make sure you wear the pants at the waist level you normally would, and make sure the inseam length is long enough to be comfortable for both standing straight, and crouching down on your knees / sitting down. And to wear the shoes you would normally wear. Ideally finding the best balance of not riding up too far showing your ankles if you crouch or sit, while also not pooling on top of your shoes when relaxed.
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also take into consideration that when honeycombs and such appear behind the knees, it will pull the fabric up and will seem like you lost some length as well.
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***Update
I ended up realizing what the difference was with these 8301S, they're unwashed sanforized SBG, whereas most of the other SBGs are washed sanforized. I had thought that sanforized meant all shrink is gone, but that's not quite the case as the wash does make a difference also. So can apparently expect around an inch of inseam shrink after washing (though it's still odd that SelfEdges site says to only expect .5in inseam shrink, when other 8301S owners were saying 1 to 1.5 inches of shrink). Noob mistake!I have a pair of SLB on the way at 29in hem, so will see how they go, and should be able to determine the right length for the 8301S based off that
I got these 8301S a couple months ago, haven't worn them yet still need to send in to IHUK for hemming (want to get proper chainstitch). Feedback from other 8301 owners on Reddit was that you can expect about an inch of shrink in the inseam after washing for these SBG. Since I gotta get this right I thought I better check here too.
Do people normally do a wash before sending in, or is it safe enough to just send for hemming as is?
And if the below length looks about right, I guess I can just add an inch to allow for shrink / and potentially honeycombs. Inseam below is about 28.6 in / 73cm, I'm only about 5"7 / 174cm so way too much length to wear without a hem adjustment first
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I ended up realizing what the difference was with these 8301S, they're unwashed sanforized SBG, whereas most of the other SBGs are washed sanforized. I had thought that sanforized meant all shrink is gone, but that's not quite the case as the wash does make a difference also. So can apparently expect around an inch of inseam shrink after washing (though it's still odd that SelfEdges site says to only expect .5in inseam shrink, when other 8301S owners were saying 1 to 1.5 inches of shrink)
So I guess the main points are
- when measuring the inseam length to hem try to accommodate standing, kneeling, sitting. Make sure it's not too short when you're sitting or crouching as the legs will ride up
- consider that you may lose a tiny bit of length to honeycombs / stacking of the fabric
- sanforized & unwashed is different to sanforized & washed - check the fabric guidance in product details
- if in doubt, keep a bit extra because you can always go shorter later, but you can't add back the length
For unsanforized unwashed denim (which seems not too common for IronHeart) probably more care is needed, and perhaps taking an initial wash is a good thing to get a more accurate reflection of the post shrink length. Though with sanforized washed denim, it's not going to shrink much, so should be OK to hem without wearing / washing.
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Just got my first pair. I used to be a 633 guy. . . No longer. Pic with my super black iron heart vest included
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Awesome combo of black denim @bubbapest where do you find your patches? I really dig those…
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Oh man, it was this place called death, hell and the grave. Shoulder patches and the back patch. The fingers was this brand a tattoo artist i knew, i doubt its open still. And the other one was from sketchy tank i think
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Wow that's a hell of a name!
https://shrimp-sauce.com/collections/patches now youve got me looking !!!
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Wow that's a hell of a name!
https://shrimp-sauce.com/collections/patches now youve got me looking !!!
Awesome thanks for the link. I was looking last night but didn't find much…
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Anytime
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Anyone know if the 8301 is closer to the 777 or the 555? Was thinking 777 but just wanted to double check with experience
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Anyone know if the 8301 is closer to the 777 or the 555? Was thinking 777 but just wanted to double check with experience
Closer to 777.
The 555 tapers strongly in the thigh then drops fairly straight knee to hem. The 301 and 777 have (slightly different) amounts of taper through the whole leg.
The other major similarity between 777 and 301 is the lower rise. If memory serves, the 301 has a slightly roomier top block than the 777 though.
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Awesome, thanks. Ill have to try the 777 for my next indigo pair
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Dumb question, but is this the exact same fabric as the non-Self Edge collaboration cuts? The 888, 555, 634, etc don’t mention the waist and inseam shrinkage like the description for this pair does on Self Edge’s website.
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Back when the 555-03 was first a thing, the sbg denim it was made of had a description like that and sort of shrank-to-fit. I have a vague recollection that at some point the denim and/or it’s treatment changed so that was no longer the case. I expect that self edge is using their original description, but the denim and it’s processing may have undergone the same change. Another possibility is that these 8301 are still from the earlier batches of this denim.
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I asked Kiya about the product descriptions and got a pretty quick response:
“The 633s-SBG is very very lightly rinsed, we still consider it "raw".
Where as the 8301 isn't rinsed at all, so there is more shrinkage there, especially for a sanforized denim.
I wouldn't expect the 633s-SBG to shrink that much, and they run a bit small so most of our clients have been sizing up.“Sounds like the 8301 is pretty much an unwashed sanforized fabric.
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This sounds like the first run the Berkeley Supply Snake Oil Provisions had. I got a lot of shrink out of that pair I had and wasn't expecting as much so now I'm on the hunt for a new pair of SBG.
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@plumdog I'm a year behind you - I just received my 8301 SBGs and was going to wear them for a while unhemmed as well until after the first soak; however, the length is way too big for me.
How much shrinkage did you see across the waist, thigh, knee, hem, and length? I'll probably get these hemmed as well, so guessing I should add 1.5 - 2" to the length above my preference? The hem is also a bit wider than I usually like, but I can't tell if Self Edge/IH accounted for shrinkage in the width of the legs as well. Thanks!
