Watches - another OCD problem
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Went to see my favourite antique dealer friend today (@ROman & @chap). He told me he had done a couple of good house clearances recently. In one, he found some nice watches and offered the seller X for everything in the house. Offer accepted. I asked him what the watches were, and he reeled off a few Cartiers and Tiffanys and the like and then added "oh and this one", he pulled up his cuff to show me a rather nice IWC Portofino, "Yeah, I found it in a box under the sofa, and thought, oh fuck it, I'll have that for me"....
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Portofino is a classic and under-appreciated watch
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All fair points
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I'm not sure if the twelve-hour GMT function would be a problem in practice. I've generally got a reasonably good idea of where relative times stand. If I had the watch set to Australian Eastern Time (8 pm at the time of writing) and the secondary time set to Pacific Time in the US (1 o'clock), then I could deduce that it's 1 am in California, not 1 pm, and therefore not call.
Other than that, it's a pretty watch, and the GMT rattrapante mechanism looks fun. Finishing seems good in photos, but I haven't seen one in the metal.
If you're after alternatives, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph has a GMT function and is about $10K less. The Patek Phillipe 5212a is $10K more and doesn't have the complication, but will hold its value better. LUC offers a GMT and a world-timer in a variety of materials. The IWC Timezoner has probably got the neatest time zone complication.
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I think this is may fave.....
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Have any of you watch experts got any opinions on the Tudor Black Bay 54?
https://www.tudorwatch.com/en/watch-family/black-bay-54
I have been offered one by my AD. I do like the look and the size works for anyone with a wrist of 7 inches or less (17.75cm).
Just can’t make my mind up on the vintage gilt finish.
Available on rubber strap or bracelet. -
Man Bulgari Octo are so friggin cool. I’ve moved on from chronographs mostly but it’s such a cool, creative, modern design. I think Pf wins for me among those designs but the LUC GMT seems like such an eminently functional, legible piece. It also looks a bit prosaic which I kind of like as an under the radar thing.
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@IrishHeart I share the quite mainstream opinion that they are gorgeous and I feel a pretty good value. You get Rolex tech and support in a classic design that will pair with any outfit or context.
The one quibble I have is with the faux rivets on the bracelets but that’s not a huge deal. It would be high on my list if I were in the market for a fine timepiece.
I also love the Pelagos and especially its bracelet and lumed bezel. The text on the dial on that one probably bothers me more than the rivets on the BB.
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@mclaincausey thanks for your input.
I am really quite keen to treat myself, and am unlikely to afford a Rolex anytime soon.
I know what you mean about the faux rivets, but they don’t bother me too much. I do wonder why Tudor persists with them when the feedback is usually negative about them.When I saw the AD a few weeks ago, he also had it on the black rubber strap which I thought suited it. The bracelet is probably more classic, but do you have any preference?
The bracelet was only about £170 more which surprised me. I thought there be a bigger differential, although the rubber does also come with the T-fit clasp which is nice.Thanks again for your input.
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Man I’d go for it. For me the faux rivet thing isn’t a big deal and of all models it makes the most sense on this one because it is almost a reproduction, so I’d absolutely buy the bracelet and probably some aftermarket leather options. I think I’d take this one over the 58 but it’s close.
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@IrishHeart I agree with @mclaincausey about Tudor quality, value, &c. The black bay range doesn’t do it for me but if you like it, then I don’t think you’ll be disappointed. I’ve been very happy with my Fastrider Chrono despite some of its obvious quirks.
The strap vs bracelet is really down to preference. If you’re likely to use both, it’s usually cheaper to buy the watch with the bracelet and buy additional straps separately, but otherwise just go with whatever you think works best for you.
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the recent tudors with the new movements are definitely worth every penny. I'd go for it in an instant. bracelet or rubber strap is a personal preference. the rubber is a nice change. but if you go bracelet, you have more flexibility in changing into others like NATO or even other third party rubber straps (rubber B etc)
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@mclaincausey I’m with you on everything you say.
I almost bought the 58 a couple of years ago, but really pleased I held off as I prefer this.Thanks again buddy.
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@ARNC you are echoing my own thoughts regarding it being better to go bracelet as other straps will be cheaper down the line.
Appreciate your input.
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@louisbosco agree totally. Both straps look great so nice dilemma to have.
Thanks for your thoughts on this.
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@Giles I like the Aquanauts too, but unless you've got blackmail photos of the AD or are in Thierry Stern's good books, you're unlikely to get one. I'd probably get the Chronograph instead, though.
@mclaincausey the Tonda is a lovely looking watch, and I believe that they have a high standard of finishing. I like that they're not a typical Instagram-friendly watch, so they won't attract unwanted attention like a Rolex might, and it's more fun to have something that's not so well known. Also, it hasn't got any text on its dial.
The Robb Report said that they've been increasing in popularity in recent years, so there's growing demand, which should help with retaining resale value.
@IrishHeart the Tudors have a good reputation, especially the Black Bay 54. I'd echo the comments that it's cheaper to get it on the bracelet and then buy straps afterwards. The dealer might even throw in one or two as a sweetener.
I was going to suggest the Seamaster Diver as an alternative to the Tudor, but I think that Omega have bumped their prices up, and now they're getting on for Rolex money.
If you really want a Rolex, then I'd suggest skipping the Tudor and keep on saving. The Black Bay is around 40% of the price of a no-date Submariner. (Although a Sub is nearly as much as the smaller Glashütte Original SeaQ, which is probably a nicer piece...)
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@mclaincausey I found this video about the Tonda.
And here's another from Time and Tide looking at the Tonda range of watches.
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@Graeme thanks for all of your feedback and suggestions.
One of the things I like about the BB54 is the dimensions. It sits much more comfortably on my wrist than a Sub.
If I were to consider Rolex, it would be the Explorer but I have an Omega Railmaster from 2009, and although clearly the Rolex is a better watch, didn’t differentiate itself enough to my untrained eye when I look to rotate what I’m wearing. I can also buy the Tudor now as opposed to waiting months/years for the Explorer.
The Glashutte and Seamaster are both very nice, but the BB still ticks more boxes for me.
Thanks so much for the time taken to give me feedback. You clearly have a much greater knowledge and experience of watches than me, so I always learn plenty from you when reading your comments on this thread.
