Pearls Of (Denim) Wisdom - OR - This Much I Know (about denim).
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I don't own unsanforized denim because I fear the unpredictibility. Although, the 777 UHR's are very nice and may persuade me.
Totally understand. My conclusion in the end was that the UHR is so good that it is worth investing in and overcoming the fear. With the collected experience and knowledge of the IH crew and this forum you won’t go wrong if you do your research. Also see my original post. If in doubt wear the crap out of them and make them yours. More about that in a post coming soon.
Jep, raw denim is not that complicated… you just need a seller who know's a little about the stuff he sells, follow the advice regarding shrinkage. That's it. Had very good experiences with buying raw denim from IHUK, Statement-Store and of course Danny (RnH).
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^+1. I copped a pair of UHR off the market place in the 666 cut. The cut wasn't for me (I'm a 634 and 463 guy), but my god the denim was out of this world…
https://www.ironheart.co.uk/extinct/ih-634-uhr.html
@Giles pleeeeeeeaaaaase we need a rerun
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I’ve always found finding the correct inseam length to be very difficult. I think because I was a sneakerhead when I started buying IH I got used to longer inseams to let the denim drape over my Adidas. Now that I mostly wear Engineers I need a much shorter length. I like different inseam lengths on different cuts too.
Interesting–I tend to appreciate length more with boots because the boots (particularly engineers and cowboys) push the hem up the leg and form great stacks, and with sneakers that same length may drag on the floor and destroy the hem, especially at the back. My jeans always tend to be a bit long though, long enough to cuff if I liked cuffing. I also tend to wear a given pair of jeans with any style of footwear aside from formal or sandal (I don't have "boot" or "sneaker" jeans, especially since I've moved on from 634), so my mileage varies.
That reminds me of another thing I've noticed: particularly with new stiff jeans, don't freak out if the knees poke out from upward pressure along the shin from the cuffs resting on your shoes. It may look weird to you, but as the fabric softens and slackens, the effect will diminish.
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That reminds me of another thing I've noticed: particularly with new stiff jeans, don't freak out if the knees poke out from upward pressure along the shin from the cuffs resting on your shoes. It may look weird to you, but as the fabric softens and slackens, the effect will diminish.
^ Denim pearl of wisdom right there.
Regarding the boot/hemming the issue was specific to the 888 cut with me. The stacking caused the jeans to bunch in all sorts of weird places, all the way up to the top block. Now that they drop a little more naturally that issue has gone. That was my point though, that sometimes a re-hem can alter the silhouette of the entire jean.
My 666’s stack with boots in a different way and I do as you say and have them longer.
My hypothesis (and I realise I spend waaaaay to much time thinking about this) is that there are different hem lengths that work with different cuts and different footwear. And then there’s personal preference if course….
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I especially agree about sanforisation. STF can be exciting but it complicates an already tricky job.
I don't own unsanforized denim because I fear the unpredictibility. Although, the 777 UHR's are very nice and may persuade me.
You really need to get an unsanforized pair man….
It was an "ah-ha" moment for me. They break in %100 faster, and normally drape better and the comfort is much nicer. It's not even comparable to most sanforized.
I'm not an IH fan boy like I once was, but their 21oz is comparable to unsanforized in break in and wear though.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
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Yeah, I don't believe I've any sanforized IH's but a lot (a lot) of UHR's because they're so good. FH, Samurai Ooe's, SC-all unsanforized. As @neph93 said sizing isn't brain surgery & if you're not happy with the fit you can hot wash or dry. With sanforized you get what you get.
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You really need to get an unsanforized pair man….
It was an "ah-ha" moment for me. They break in %100 faster, and normally drape better and the comfort is much nicer. It's not even comparable to most sanforized.
I'm not an IH fan boy like I once was, but their 21oz is comparable to unsanforized in break in and wear though.
For me the denim has to be pretty special to bother with unsanforised. I won’t disagree that the results can be great and quick, but you can get that with sanforised denim too. The IH vintage 18oz as used on the IH-634S-18 fades as quickly and attractively as the UHR and has a similar crispy, hairy texture.
I also agree that the 21oz is a great break in. Ironically it receives the most post weave treatment of all the IH denims.
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I have an example for your consideration.
Unsanforized 17oz LHT gray weft:
Sanforized 18oz RHT indigo weft:
Comparing an apple to a pear, the question is, was the hassle of unsanforized worth it? The SG are about an inch too large in the waist right now, the IH can be worn without a belt. So I think it was worth it, but based on the strength of the fades on the sanforized pair, I no longer consider loomstate a necessity. The early promise of the vintage 18oz denim are firming up my position on sanforization further still, as I think they have the potential to be my favorite fade project yet. Yes, you can have character in sanforized denim. Don't believe the hype stating otherwise, it's just more bullshit denim lore.
Further, my experience with these pairs has made me a firm believer in polycotton constructional thread. The SGs really fell apart, and my 5105 were even worse. Wabi sabi is great but I want the jeans to last, or else you'll never get the fabric to a cool state of fade, which is the coolest wabi sabi.
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Yep, hence the apples to pears remark. These are very different denims.
